July 10, 2013
As I had suspected, my Internet funds had run out in the
middle of the night, and the available connections in the area featured a
security code. Luann had called twice after I’d gone to bed to say she wanted
to meet later than we’d previously agreed. That was fine with me and I sent her
a SMS to confirm.
Willoughby called very early in the morning to ascertain
what my plans were for my two remaining days in Bishkek. I had thought about
suggesting dinner on Thursday night to cap my experience here and was willing
to pull out all the stops and go that fancy French restaurant, Ratatouille.
Willoughby agreed wholeheartedly.
I had some flat bread, cubes of cheese and hot chocolate for
breakfast while watching a documentary on the history of Ireland. What a bloody
mess that place has been with thousands of lives being lost just because a
group belonging to one religion, Catholic, Anglican, or Protestant, wanted to
dominate the other.
I then sent a text message to Rasur to determine the most
convenient time for him to pick up the laptop, and another to Gulnara for her
to come by with the Forum stamp for the two documents she’d signed for me. Neither
one answered right away.
I still had a mountain of scrap paper that I had accumulated
from all my presentations and conferences attended. I decided on the spur of
the moment to jump on a marshrutka and take it to the Osh bazaar so that the
spice vendors could use them to make their paper cones to dispense their wares.
It was tricky to hang on to the papers while maneuvering the mini-van, but I
made it and offered it to first vendor I encountered.
He turned it down as apparently he thought I wanted money
for it. I walked a few steps away and an older Russian-looking woman asked to
see the pile of papers. I made it clear I just wanted to give it away and when she
agreed to the deal, I placed the entire pile on the floor next to her stall.
I rode the marshrutka up to where the Carlson Wagonlit
travel agency was located to ask them for information on how to pay for the
excess baggage. Larissa confirmed I’d be asked to pay $6.00 per kilo and would
have to pay cash only.
I rode another marshrutka back to the flat, but got off at
the corner of Manas and Bokumkaiva so I could buy a shawarma sandwich, a plate
of plov and some salad for lunch. Gulnara from Forum called as I was about to
get off to let me know she was already waiting at the flat to place the stamp
on the documents and pick up some things for Forum.
I asked her to give ten minutes, picked up my food and then
hustled to meet Gulnara. I brought out the two documents in need of the Forum’s
stamp and then gave her the green and black tea, sugar, and napkins I had left
over from the open house party. She saw the bottle of sunflower oil, barely
used, and asked me for it. I prepared a bag and gave it all to her.
Once she was gone, I had the plov and a salad of marinated
mushrooms before preparing to meet Luann for coffee. I had suggested we visit
the Manas Village that Elvira had mentioned to me and which we had passed on
the way back from the Ala Archa State Park, and Luann readily agreed to do so.
I walked to the 135 Coffee House and waited in the open terrace for her.
Fortunately, they offered Wi-Fi and I was able to get access
to my mail. I had a message from the ELF program indicating my application was
incomplete and I needed to contact them to set up a time for an interview since
the one on file was already too old.
The skies had turned black and the wind was beginning to
pick up. I hated the idea of missing out on visiting the village since I’d not
have another chance to do so. Luann recommended ordering the hot chocolate that
looked and tasted more like a chocolate pudding. At 220 som, or almost $5.00, I
was hoping for something delicious and it was worth every som
Natalia called while I was having my chocolate and inquired
as to my schedule for the next day as she still wanted to meet with me before
my departure. I mentioned my commitment to Willoughby, both morning and
evening, and she said she’d try to squeeze in sometime to see me. It had
started to sprinkle as we left the café.
Luann and I got on the #266 marshrutka and the driver
signaled to us when we got to the village. Except for the sign at the corner of
Manas, we found no directions for the place and had to ask two other people
before confirming that we just needed to walk down a bit to get to it. The
cashier’s booth was empty, but two security guards sat to the right and asked
for 20 som for us to get in.
The village in question was supposed to recreate the Manas
epic so revered in Kyrgyzstan, but I couldn’t make heads or tails out of the
many different structures. If there was some symbolism attached to each one, we
couldn’t tell since there were no signs of any kind in any language whatsoever.
We took tons of photos and even got into the yurt at the end where every day
items were on display.
The woman tending to the yurt beckoned us to put on the
traditional velvet coat and headdress and to have our picture taken at
different angles inside the yurt. Although I normally shrink from doing the
“touristy” thing, I caved in this one time and had my photo taken several
times.
Back outside, the rain had subsided and we took some more
photos before proceeding next door to the other attraction I’d seen from the
road: Flamingo Park, but not before walking in front of the Issyk-Kul Hotel,
which appeared to be completely abandoned as weed had invaded the front
entrance completely.
Flamingo Park was a kitschy take on Disneyland or Disney
World that had fallen in disrepair with concrete chunks missing, rusting
sculptures and green areas full of weeds. We immediately labeled it “The Poor
Man’s Disney” and marveled at the many knockoffs of familiar Disney characters
adorning the place. We paid 40 som just for the privilege of getting in and
taking photos.
I had to plead with Luann to leave by 7:00 as Rasur was
coming by to pick up the laptop he’d bought from me. We had to wait for a long
while before getting into a marshrutka and got home at exactly five minutes to
eight. Rasur was waiting downstairs, so I proceeded to pack up the laptop for
him.
Luann had begged me to accompany her to a pop quiz, or
trivial pursuit game, that night where Rebecca, David and Amada would be
present. I was very hungry and wanted to do one more load of laundry before
finishing my packing, so staying home was the logical thing to do.
Luann had been such a pleasure to spend the afternoon with
that I decided to cave in and accompany her after I had finished the leftovers
from my lunch. We walked to the Dragon’s Pub off Frunze Avenue and found the
group sitting outside and already in the middle of the quiz. I was able to
contribute to the answers on at least four occasions and our group ended up
winning the contest, the first time ever they’d done so.
At ten o’clock, I was falling asleep and bid everyone
goodbye for good after Luann took a couple of photos for the record. I walked
back to my place feeling the pain on my legs from the walking I’d done Sunday
at the park and all day today.
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