September 29, 2012
The day started out with the sun hiding behind clouds to
give way to the showers expected for tomorrow. I tidied up the apartment in
preparation for Zarina coming over for breakfast before going to the Osh Bazaar
for our shopping expedition.
I like the fact that
from my fourth floor perch I have an encompassing view of the entire courtyard
as my complex consists of four buildings set at angles to produce a perfect quadrangle.
It is obvious, from what remains of it, that when the Soviets built the
complex, it was intended as the place where families would gathered to watch
the young play while chitchatting with neighbors. The playground equipment is
now rusted, the shrubs overgrown and a thick coat of dust weighs over
everything, but the young people can still be seeing smoking and talking into
their mobile phones while young mothers watch their toddlers awkwardly take
their first steps.
I cooked an omelet with a salami filling and served it with
flat bread, coffee and juice. Zarina found the filling too spicy for her taste,
but ate the entire omelet nonetheless. She just got engaged a week ago and
plans to get married at the end of October and wants to take cooking lessons
with me to impress her fiancé. She related that the engagement ceremony
consisted of her future in-laws coming to her house to enjoy a lavish meal, for
which she and mother cooked all day, at the end of which her fiancé’s family
pinned a pair of gold hoops in her ears to symbolize that she now belonged to
their family. It was that simple. She now needs to set up appointments to get
her wedding gown, make-up, hair and nail done on very short notice. She’ll be
moving into her in-laws’ house as expected in her culture at least until they
can save enough money to move out on their own.
We walked to the bazaar and were able to get about fifty
percent of the items I had placed on my list. The bazaar was very similar to
the one in Dushanbe in its set up, but the merchandise being sold was quite
different. I was delighted with the blue and gold set of pitcher and glasses we
found along with a set of stainless-steel cooking utensils I desperately needed while also adding a cutting board and plastic containers for the refrigerator. We
had to stop our shopping short as I had my first conversation class scheduled
to begin at 1:00pm.
I had a total of eight students present although some of
them straggled in almost a half hour after we officially began. After an
introductory game, we proceeded to talk about food for which I gave them a
handout to complete so we could discuss it. Most of the dishes the students
mentioned as being typical of Kyrgyzstan turned out to be the same ones in
Tajikistan or Kazakhstan including the horse meat dish called beshbarmak, which
is intended to be eaten with the fingers.
Beshbarmak with the head of a sheep added to it.
When the class was over, Zarina and I went downstairs to
have a bite to eat. She recommended I order the fried lagman while she had a
salad. The noodle dish, while tasty, was way too salty for me and it lacked the
usual greens I associate with having lagman. I rode the marshrutka back to my
place and spent the rest of the evening putting together several documents to
begin my work at Lingua and the Forum organization next week.