tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55592192702312721602024-03-04T21:19:14.988-08:00Anacaona AbroadI am an English Language Fellow providing teacher training workshops and feedback to teachers in Kyrgyzstan so as to make their classes more interactive and fun.
"This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website.
The views and information presented are the English Language
Fellows' own and do not represent the English Language Fellow
Program or the U.S. Department of State."Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.comBlogger295125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-84277761788367126512013-07-18T09:17:00.001-07:002013-07-18T11:40:22.855-07:00Farewell, Kyrgyzstan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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July 12, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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It was my last day in Bishkek and I decided it was time for
some kind of reflection on the successes and travails my ten-month fellowship
had brought me. I thought of a way I could list the positive and the negative aspects
and Dave Letterman’s list of the “Top Ten Things” came to my mind.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, I’ll start with the top ten things I’ll miss about
Bishkek.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->1.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The imposing views of the mountains<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->2.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The leafy streets and tree-lined promenades
running for miles<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->3.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The ability to walk practically everywhere<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->4.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The fact that one can find almost anything
needed within a block or two of one’s apartment<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->5.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The profusion of coffee houses and the fact that
most of them offer some kind of outdoor sitting<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->6.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The inexpensive transportation system<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->7.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->My very bright, airy and so well-positioned
apartment<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->8.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The jungle-like courtyard in my apartment
complex<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->9.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->The freshly-baked flat bread, especially when
baked with sesame seeds on top as the Uzbek people do<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->10.<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span><!--[endif]-->Willoughby, Damira, Kate, Zarina and others who
took the time to get to know me, and spent time showing me around the city</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
On the downside, here’s my list of
the things I won’t miss at all:</div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->1.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Encountering loogies (<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">a large slimy glob of spit)</span> on the steps to my
building, the sidewalks and streets.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->2.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Being unable to avoid the ever present smokers
on the streets, restaurants, shops, and marshrutkas ad infinitum.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->3.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Having to keep my eyes on the broken up
sidewalks for fear of stumbling and falling.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->4.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Feeling that as a pedestrian I’m worth as much
as some mongrel dog and that Bishkek drivers actually enjoy trying to run me
down even on the city’s sidewalks. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->5.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Trying to maneuver the icy sidewalks and streets
during the winter months.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->6.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Running out of options at my most restaurants
where meat reigns supreme and even a salad comes with meat in it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->7.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Having to ask for a knife at every restaurant. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->8.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Repeatedly asking my server to make sure my
latte is actually hot when it gets to my table.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->9.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Finding out that my food has no seasonings of
any kind, many times not even salt.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->10.<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Having to ask for coffee for breakfast when the
hotel/guest house simply assumes all their guest will drink tea</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As I wrote for final report for Georgetown University, I
know I’ve grown professionally from all the different activities my position
has required me to perform. I feel much more comfortable as a speaker
addressing a large audience and know more intimately the challenges teachers
here face when in the classroom. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Even when racism has reared its ugly head, I have been able
to put aside my own feelings of frustration and rage to proceed with what was
expected of me in a professional manner. I do not forgive those who engage in
this practice, but have vowed to behave in a civil manner whenever possible.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Many people have asked me if I would want to return to
Central Asia in any other capacity, perhaps as a college professor enjoying a
pretty good salary here. I don’t believe so as the climate is quite harsh and
the food simply not up to my standards. There were days when I simply didn’t
want to cook and found very few options, if any, of places I wanted to go out
to for a meal.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I found Kyrgyz people in general to be rather reticent about
their lives. In the many months I was here, no one ever invited me to a family
celebration except for Zarina’s wedding last October. Despite many promises of
future invitations to dinners and summer homes, these invitations never
materialized. I really feel that I didn’t get to know any of them really well.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The reverse side of that was that I also felt that they were
not curious about me at all. While living in Tajikistan, people wanted to know
everything about my life in the States and insisted on seeing photos of my
house, my car, and my family. No one here has ever asked about my family
photos.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I have to say that Kyrgyzstan is not a place I would ever
consider returning to because I have left such great friends behind. End of
story.<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-47642807347108550332013-07-18T09:11:00.001-07:002013-07-18T09:11:25.068-07:00July 11<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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July 11, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sleeping late wasn’t an option on the big day. I got up as
soon as light crept over the sky and then a feeling of emptiness overtook me
when I contemplated the fact that I had no laptop to sit at or Internet access
to keep in touch with anyone.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I made coffee for the last time and after drinking it,
cleaned the coffeemaker since it’d be going to Willoughby that same day. I had
set aside the suitcase that would be going to the Peace Corps office with most
of my winter clothes and other things. Luann had given me a great idea for the
remaining spices and staples on my cabinets as she’d suggested I put them in a
bag and take them to the volunteers for them to choose whatever they wanted.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby showed up at noon and we proceeded to bring all
the packages and the suitcase downstairs and then I went in search of a taxi
driver. I saw a newish mini-van parked in front and got the driver to come
around to the front of the building where we loaded the suitcase and bags
immediately. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We made it to the Peace Corps offices where we dropped the
suitcase in one place and the collection of book club books in another. Their
resource room was definitely minuscule compared to what we used to have at the
Peace Corps compound in Kathmandu.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The taxi driver had waited for us and then took us to
Willoughby’s flat where I brought in the printer and the other bags before we
went to the store to buy a beer and drink it in her kitchen. We agreed to meet
at six to have dinner at the French restaurant Ratatouille which had been
highly recommended.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Damira had called before to pinpoint the time I’d be
returning home for she wanted to see me before my departure. She was downstairs
waiting when I got in and we sat in the living room talking for a bit. She was
observing Ramadan and thus turned down my offer for something to drink or eat.
She even told me that hugging or kissing between sunrise and sunset was
forbidden.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had forgotten to charge my cell phone the day before and
now found myself with no charger of any kind and only a bar or two. Damira
offered to ask one of my neighbors for a charger since Nokia was such a popular
brand in the country. She went out and returned with one letting me know I
needed to return it to its rightful owner by 9:00 pm.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Damira said goodbye admonishing me one more time to find god
in any religion of my choice. I tried to hug her, but she reminded me about
Ramadan once again. I walked downstairs with her so she could pinpoint the
apartment where I needed to return the charger and then bid her goodbye as her
brother-in-law was giving her a ride home.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I took a quick shower, ironed one of my Tajik outfits and
got ready for Willoughby’s arrival. We rode the #13 marshrutka and then walked
three blocks to the restaurant which was located on the first floor of the
Europa Hotel on a street I’d never walked on. We chose to sit out on the
terrace facing the main drag.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Prices were outrageous and I wasn’t really hungry, so I
settled for a portion of a salmon quiche and a green salad. Willoughby ordered
roasted duck and mashed potatoes. Portions were minuscule and my quiche was
evidently not something made locally, but had been heated in the microwave for
too long. It had no flavor or seasonings of any kind, so I had to
leave it on the side and only ate my salad. I paid over $10.00 for this
privilege while watching lots of other ex-pats stroll in and out of the place.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We walked together to where Willoughby would catch her
marshrutka and we hugged tightly as we said goodbye. I walked two more blocks
and got into another one to take me home. I had arranged to have the same taxi driver pick me up at
10:00 pm to take me to the airport since Diana had arranged to pick up the key
to the flat at that time instead of 11:00. I walked the flat from one end to
another one more time making sure everything was clean, in its place and
presentable.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At nine, I went downstairs to take the garbage out one last
time and to return the charger to my neighbors, but no one answered the door.
When I went back a second time, I found the neighbors still absent, but the
taxi driver already parked at the door waiting for me.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I started to bring down my bags, which made quite a racket
on the stairs, thus prompting the cleaning lady to come out of her flat to
snoop on the matter. She came downstairs asking me questions about my landlady
when she knew full well that I didn’t speak Russian and couldn’t answer any of
them.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I waited for Diana from 10:00 to 10:30 pm and she didn’t
show up. I couldn’t locate my cell phone and was thus unable to call her. I
didn’t occur to me to have the taxi driver call me to see if I could hear my
phone then. When half an hour elapsed and there was no sign of her, I gave the
taxi driver the signal to leave and left the key with the cleaning woman along
with the charger.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were already on the highway to the airport when Diana
called. I now realized my cell phone had been on the outside pocket of my
handbag and I answered it to let her know that the key had been left with the
woman in unit #29. Diana didn’t apologize for being late, on the contrary, she
argued I had mentioned I wanted to leave for the airport as late as possible.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I countered by saying she had given me a specific time and I
needed to arrange for a taxi to get me to the airport. She wanted to know where
the money was for the utility bills was, which I had had at hand while waiting
for her, about $35.00, but didn’t feel comfortable leaving the money with
someone I didn’t know at all.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I told her I’d try to get a friend to get the money to her,
but then realized Willoughby would be too busy with her own trip to take out
time to deal with this issue. I’d have no way of reimbursing anybody else who
could pay the debt for me either. After giving it some thought, I decided that
I had fulfilled my side of the bargain and shouldn’t feel guilty if the
landlady and her friend hadn’t done their part.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I got to the airport, there was no one outside that
could carry my bags for me. In fact, there was nobody around at all. The taxi
driver was gracious enough to go and find me a cart and I had to pile the
suitcases on it myself. There was a stupid grate before reaching the building
and the wheels got stuck in it causing my smaller bag to go flying in air I and
then falling to the ground.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some spectators on the second floor had seen my struggle
and motioned for me to move the cart sideways to be able to maneuver around the
grate. I made it through security and asked if there was an elevator to the
second floor where the Turkish Airlines counter was. They said yes, but my question must not have
been understood as there were no elevators, just an escalator. Thankfully, two
young guys came by and offered to help me get my bags upstairs cart and all.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was only 11:00 pm when I settled down in front of gate #3
and started the long wait for my 3:55 am flight. I ate the half shawarma
sandwich I had left before it got entirely cold and got engrossed in the
reading of my latest book pick, “The Book Thief”. <o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-77853600388202427792013-07-18T09:05:00.000-07:002013-07-18T09:05:05.508-07:00July 10<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 10, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As I had suspected, my Internet funds had run out in the
middle of the night, and the available connections in the area featured a
security code. Luann had called twice after I’d gone to bed to say she wanted
to meet later than we’d previously agreed. That was fine with me and I sent her
a SMS to confirm.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby called very early in the morning to ascertain
what my plans were for my two remaining days in Bishkek. I had thought about
suggesting dinner on Thursday night to cap my experience here and was willing
to pull out all the stops and go that fancy French restaurant, Ratatouille.
Willoughby agreed wholeheartedly.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had some flat bread, cubes of cheese and hot chocolate for
breakfast while watching a documentary on the history of Ireland. What a bloody
mess that place has been with thousands of lives being lost just because a
group belonging to one religion, Catholic, Anglican, or Protestant, wanted to
dominate the other.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I then sent a text message to Rasur to determine the most
convenient time for him to pick up the laptop, and another to Gulnara for her
to come by with the Forum stamp for the two documents she’d signed for me. Neither
one answered right away. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I still had a mountain of scrap paper that I had accumulated
from all my presentations and conferences attended. I decided on the spur of
the moment to jump on a marshrutka and take it to the Osh bazaar so that the
spice vendors could use them to make their paper cones to dispense their wares.
It was tricky to hang on to the papers while maneuvering the mini-van, but I
made it and offered it to first vendor I encountered.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
He turned it down as apparently he thought I wanted money
for it. I walked a few steps away and an older Russian-looking woman asked to
see the pile of papers. I made it clear I just wanted to give it away and when she
agreed to the deal, I placed the entire pile on the floor next to her stall.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I rode the marshrutka up to where the Carlson Wagonlit
travel agency was located to ask them for information on how to pay for the
excess baggage. Larissa confirmed I’d be asked to pay $6.00 per kilo and would
have to pay cash only.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I rode another marshrutka back to the flat, but got off at
the corner of Manas and Bokumkaiva so I could buy a shawarma sandwich, a plate
of plov and some salad for lunch. Gulnara from Forum called as I was about to
get off to let me know she was already waiting at the flat to place the stamp
on the documents and pick up some things for Forum.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I asked her to give ten minutes, picked up my food and then
hustled to meet Gulnara. I brought out the two documents in need of the Forum’s
stamp and then gave her the green and black tea, sugar, and napkins I had left
over from the open house party. She saw the bottle of sunflower oil, barely
used, and asked me for it. I prepared a bag and gave it all to her.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once she was gone, I had the plov and a salad of marinated
mushrooms before preparing to meet Luann for coffee. I had suggested we visit
the Manas Village that Elvira had mentioned to me and which we had passed on
the way back from the Ala Archa State Park, and Luann readily agreed to do so.
I walked to the 135 Coffee House and waited in the open terrace for her.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fortunately, they offered Wi-Fi and I was able to get access
to my mail. I had a message from the ELF program indicating my application was
incomplete and I needed to contact them to set up a time for an interview since
the one on file was already too old.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The skies had turned black and the wind was beginning to
pick up. I hated the idea of missing out on visiting the village since I’d not
have another chance to do so. Luann recommended ordering the hot chocolate that
looked and tasted more like a chocolate pudding. At 220 som, or almost $5.00, I
was hoping for something delicious and it was worth every som<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Natalia called while I was having my chocolate and inquired
as to my schedule for the next day as she still wanted to meet with me before
my departure. I mentioned my commitment to Willoughby, both morning and
evening, and she said she’d try to squeeze in sometime to see me. It had
started to sprinkle as we left the café.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Luann and I got on the #266 marshrutka and the driver
signaled to us when we got to the village. Except for the sign at the corner of
Manas, we found no directions for the place and had to ask two other people
before confirming that we just needed to walk down a bit to get to it. The
cashier’s booth was empty, but two security guards sat to the right and asked
for 20 som for us to get in.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The village in question was supposed to recreate the Manas
epic so revered in Kyrgyzstan, but I couldn’t make heads or tails out of the
many different structures. If there was some symbolism attached to each one, we
couldn’t tell since there were no signs of any kind in any language whatsoever.
We took tons of photos and even got into the yurt at the end where every day
items were on display.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The woman tending to the yurt beckoned us to put on the
traditional velvet coat and headdress and to have our picture taken at
different angles inside the yurt. Although I normally shrink from doing the
“touristy” thing, I caved in this one time and had my photo taken several
times.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Back outside, the rain had subsided and we took some more
photos before proceeding next door to the other attraction I’d seen from the
road: Flamingo Park, but not before walking in front of the Issyk-Kul Hotel,
which appeared to be completely abandoned as weed had invaded the front
entrance completely.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Flamingo Park was a kitschy take on Disneyland or Disney
World that had fallen in disrepair with concrete chunks missing, rusting
sculptures and green areas full of weeds. We immediately labeled it “The Poor
Man’s Disney” and marveled at the many knockoffs of familiar Disney characters
adorning the place. We paid 40 som just for the privilege of getting in and
taking photos.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had to plead with Luann to leave by 7:00 as Rasur was
coming by to pick up the laptop he’d bought from me. We had to wait for a long
while before getting into a marshrutka and got home at exactly five minutes to
eight. Rasur was waiting downstairs, so I proceeded to pack up the laptop for
him.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Luann had begged me to accompany her to a pop quiz, or
trivial pursuit game, that night where Rebecca, David and Amada would be
present. I was very hungry and wanted to do one more load of laundry before
finishing my packing, so staying home was the logical thing to do.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Luann had been such a pleasure to spend the afternoon with
that I decided to cave in and accompany her after I had finished the leftovers
from my lunch. We walked to the Dragon’s Pub off Frunze Avenue and found the
group sitting outside and already in the middle of the quiz. I was able to
contribute to the answers on at least four occasions and our group ended up
winning the contest, the first time ever they’d done so.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
At ten o’clock, I was falling asleep and bid everyone
goodbye for good after Luann took a couple of photos for the record. I walked
back to my place feeling the pain on my legs from the walking I’d done Sunday
at the park and all day today.<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-83583008654173077052013-07-18T08:59:00.002-07:002013-07-18T08:59:40.542-07:00July 9<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 9, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had a pretty good night of sleep before getting up close
to six. The sun was still hiding behind one of the high rises beyond my window
thus giving me a chance to make my coffee without contending with its scorching
rays.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zarina had replied confirming that Turkish Airlines would
only allow me 38 kilos and any excess would be charged at $6.00 a kilo. It was
time to reevaluate my cargo for sure. I went through the collection of
laminated pictures I’ve accumulated between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, and
which Willoughby had offered to relieve of, and discarded several that were not
exactly scintillating. The remaining ones still weigh a ton.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I also decided to get of my T-shirts since they could be
easily replaced in the States along with the small travel towel Caroline had
given me when leaving Tajikistan. I went through my toiletries and let go of
some other items, sun block among them, to lighten my load. I tested my shoulder bag to see if I could carry the
pictures there and it seemed to hold firm. I’ll have to wait and see how it
feels once I have the tablet in there, my drinking cup and other essentials.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I walked to the dental clinic and had no trouble finding it
this time. In fact, I was too early and the staff could be seeing finishing
their lunch in an adjacent room. One of the employees handed me a clipboard
with a two-page form to complete, just like we do in the States. The waiting
room was spacious, very clean and even had magazines in English to read. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The young dental hygienist spoke very little English, so the
actual dentist, Gulzat, came by to introduce herself and to take a look before
the cleaning started. I guessed she must not have found anything horrifying as
she wanted to proceed with the cleaning right away. I asked for some anesthesia
due to my extremely high sensitivity to the scaler.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I barely felt a pinch when she proceeded to do so and had no
discomfort whatsoever during the entire procedure. The hygienist would ask me
often if I was all right and I would nod yes. In less than an hour’s time, I
was done polishing and all. The clinic charged an extra $10.00 for the
anesthetic and I happily paid the $90.00 bill.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pollen, construction dust, cigarette smoke or whatever was
in the air just got to me and I went home sneezing all the way. I stopped at
the convenience store for water, milk, and take-out for dinner. I’m going to
miss that place, for sure.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Although today was the beginning of the Ramadan holiday, I
could see no evidence of it anywhere. Some people had said that since the
majority of Kyrgyz are non-observant Muslims, there might not be much fasting
taking place here. By the look of the men smoking around me, I’d have to say
none.<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-61339279944641471012013-07-08T18:13:00.001-07:002013-07-08T18:13:19.959-07:00July 8<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 8, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was a rather uneventful day except for the fact that my landlady’s
brother knocked on my door around 9:00 am, and I refused to open it since I
didn’t really remember what he looked like and he doesn’t speak English at all.
I had received no notice that he needed access to the apartment.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later on, Diana called me to let me you there was a
potential renter interested in seeing the flat in the early afternoon, so I
told her it would be no problem at all as I planned to be at home all day.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I then had no choice, but to set out to clean the place so
it would look spotless. The kitchen and the bathroom took forever and I tidied
up the furniture so that this burly African-American guy could blow into the
space and be gone in less than five minutes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
He was from Atlanta, GA, and I knew immediately he’d be one
of those guys with little education who’d gotten a job with one of those subcontractors
at the Manas Transit Center which are making millions while supplying the
troops in Afghanistan with everything they need to continue that futile war.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
He was accompanied by a striking Kyrgyz woman who didn’t
bother looking at the place but sat in the living room fanning herself with a look
of exasperation on her face. She claimed to be a friend of the guy and was only
helping him find a suitable place to live. She wanted to know how much I paid
and if there was an A/C unit.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The guy took some notes, made no comments on the place
whatsoever and left saying he had another four places to look at that afternoon
before making a decision. I got the impression he wasn’t really interested in
the apartment.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I called the dental clinic and rescheduled my cleaning for Tuesday
at 2:30 pm. Luann confirmed we would be having coffee on Wednesday at 12:15 at
the 135 Coffee place near my flat. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I sent the last highlight report to the embassy and got a
note back from Natalia thanking me for the great job I had done in Kyrgyzstan.
Johanna wrote approving the final expense report, which I promptly forwarded to
Gen at Georgetown.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I uploaded the photos taken at the Ala Archa State Park and
finished my final report for Georgetown. I think I did get everything in this
time around. I only need to attach some photos, and voila, I’ll be done.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-82769991670646958552013-07-07T17:56:00.002-07:002013-07-07T18:22:57.008-07:00July 7<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 7, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had set the alarm just in case as I needed to be at the
agreed-on spot for the trek at 8:30 am. I was up before six anyway and busied
myself right away getting to the intersection at exactly 8:15. Willoughby was
sitting at the bus stop knitting away.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After greeting her, I went into the Narodni nearby and
bought some staples to take with me for what was expected to be a picnic and
for which , we were going to share our purchases. Amanda came by next and we
went in search of fresh flat bread to bring along, which we found after walking
here and there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rebecca and Daniel rounded out the group since Luann had
bailed out after learning that the entire cost of the outing would be around
600 soms. When a newish SUV taxi pulled up in front of us to discharge some
passengers, Amanda and I agreed we should approach the driver to see if he was
interested in taking us to the Alar Cha Park and then returning to pick us up.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The driver was game, so we piled up inside and drove past
the cemetery I had visited last Sunday with Kate and then into a beautiful part
of the city where the mountains started their steep climb and a river ran
furiously down the hill. We started to see families out picnicking by the side
of the river and lots of cars heading in the same direction as we were.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had to paid an admission fee of 650 soms, for the whole
group, so the driver could continue beyond the entrance gate. He dropped us off
in front of hotel/tea house and we agreed to call him two hours before we
wanted to be picked up. Rebecca, Amanda and David wanted to attempt one of the
longer trails while Willoughby and I just wanted to wander around for a bit.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyi9CznUZxEzVkmrsjH626EJxQXBAXxJVOvSJPQyLmGDmuQfODnb2JQXRuov8A546CpsUlrPbMWe0jM5RYPKqm9IfGyGHBFVwHTJlk5048Xn6Rqko0eb_wYHHtb20eUcs5Uuu6e5S3gQ/s1600/alar+cha.jpg14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyi9CznUZxEzVkmrsjH626EJxQXBAXxJVOvSJPQyLmGDmuQfODnb2JQXRuov8A546CpsUlrPbMWe0jM5RYPKqm9IfGyGHBFVwHTJlk5048Xn6Rqko0eb_wYHHtb20eUcs5Uuu6e5S3gQ/s320/alar+cha.jpg14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Clouds gathering at the entrance to the Alar Cha Park</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We only had about half hour of sunshine before the clouds
came, the temperatures dropped precipitously and then the drizzle started. Willoughby
and I took refuge at a nearby tea house, somebody’s house with a couple of
tables with an umbrella on their dirt front yard. We ordered tea and had some
of our cheese, bread and crackers while listening to the thunder in the
distance.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZMxTadZlxoK_4DFiHh83ZlpuRLO874456hsNqV4m0_m07Ep0Wig3Bh2Ny2QGDNfJr3qyZfVty4YzzC9pya3FNKTHUAtJ0wmDJDd8-zryzyy31CAqlQquT02EahVUM-nQCx3HBwWGwZU/s1600/alar+cha.jpg7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZMxTadZlxoK_4DFiHh83ZlpuRLO874456hsNqV4m0_m07Ep0Wig3Bh2Ny2QGDNfJr3qyZfVty4YzzC9pya3FNKTHUAtJ0wmDJDd8-zryzyy31CAqlQquT02EahVUM-nQCx3HBwWGwZU/s320/alar+cha.jpg7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The rudimentary tea house where we stopped for a rest<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rebecca called about hour an later to inform us it had
started to rain very hard where they were, so they wanted to call the driver
and head back out. I was delighted by the news since I never wanted to spend
the entire day there anyway. I had worn no socks and the frilly shawl I’d taken
with me provided no heat whatsoever, so my hands were freezing as well.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWbqoSHTD0EHwzbm83vaxxnvdyGAdERPkDmFyFRHwfYgZI6Z3b1PVIiIIQluq8YiLqFtKHh0I9WnubEKsV0EpspCR09kfno9t6YU1Ptymek-mbOYVItIv6kbBWeTmKIrBI3KmXYeDJHE/s1600/alar+cha.jpg4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWbqoSHTD0EHwzbm83vaxxnvdyGAdERPkDmFyFRHwfYgZI6Z3b1PVIiIIQluq8YiLqFtKHh0I9WnubEKsV0EpspCR09kfno9t6YU1Ptymek-mbOYVItIv6kbBWeTmKIrBI3KmXYeDJHE/s320/alar+cha.jpg4.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This cutie appeared to be the owner's granddaughter<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby and I managed to make it down to the guesthouse
by the entrance before the rain started again in earnest. We ordered another
pot of tea and inquired about the room prices which ranged from $100.00 to
200.00. She has a girlfriend coming to visit from Germany and thought this might
be a good place to stay at during a visit to the park.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once the group reunited, Amanda notified us the driver was
already outside waiting. I fell asleep at some point during the ride but woke
up before getting to the main road just as we were passing the president’s
house, a structure that took up about two city books and was surrounded by a
formidable fence and a small army of soldiers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We each ended up paying 550 soms, or $12.00, for the outing.
Luann was right in considering the cost of the trip prohibitively expense for
the local population and that was why we saw mostly foreigners coming and going.
I said goodbye to everyone and hopped on
the trolley to get home where I took a long nap on the sofa. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby called to let me know she’d taken a look at my final
report and didn’t consider its tone to be too harsh or whinny. On the other
hand, she felt I was being too modest in listing my achievements and made some specific
recommendations to remedy that. How gracious of her!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Damira called to say she’d come by at 5:30 to take me to her
house for dinner. I had prepared a gift bag with a few things to take to her
family, but when she showed up, she made it clear we were going to a
restaurant, a classy one, but a restaurant nonetheless. I protested vehemently,
as I knew her salary is very low, and caved in only when I insisted on paying
for my own meal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We walked to the same Kyrgyz restaurant, Tubeteika, I’d had lunch with Jennifer and Natalia the
last time Jennifer came for a visit and stayed at my flat. We had sat outside,
so I hadn’t seen the inside of it. The place looked almost palatial with an
open air feeling, lots of glittering lamps, sofas and artwork.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Two men were playing music in front of what looked like a
dancing floor. We occupied a booth nearby, and I found the music to be too loud
to be able to hold a conversation, but the waiter wouldn’t hear of asking for
the volume to be turned down a bit. He argued that diners at the far end wouldn’t
be able to hear the music then.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The food was unremarkable: a tiny green salad with only two
pieces of lettuce, so just tomatoes and cucumbers, salmon for me with an
insipid caper sauce and fried goat meat and potatoes for Damira. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When it came time to pay, she refused accept my 500 som note
arguing she’d invited me this time. She’d left her cell phone at my house and
had to walk back with me to get it. Evidently, she was on her way to a date as
she had ten missed calls when she got her hands on it and then told he was
already outside waiting for her.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At the end, I found out that Damira, her sister,
brother-in-law and her niece are not living in a flat as she’d said before, but
are building what will eventually be a three bedroom house in the outskirts of
town. Just as in Zarina’s case, right now they only have one bedroom that
doubles as a living room, a bathroom, hallway and kitchen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
She’d felt too embarrassed to take me to this place because
they are basically piled one on top of another. I protested telling her I
really wanted to see how Kyrgyz people lived, but she wasn’t persuaded. Oh,
that Asian face-saving characteristic reared its ugly head once again.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-22259656599067637502013-07-07T04:15:00.002-07:002013-07-07T04:15:52.838-07:00July 6<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 6, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had quite a hectic day starting with my attempt to finish
packing the second suitcase to see how much room I’d have in my carrying-on
bag. It was all bad news for I couldn’t fit in everything I had accumulated
plus present I’ve received and the ones I’ve bought.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It then occurred to me to find out how much the Turkish
Airlines might charge for excess baggage, but what I found through Google was a
complicated table that required I specify the zone and airport I was flying to
and from so that the site could give me the appropriate amount. It didn’t make
any sense since I’ll be flying into four different airports anyway.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zarina called early on to say she wanted to come by to have
a chance for a proper goodbye. Since I was expecting Gulnara from Forum to come
by as well to finally pick up the boxes of materials, I told her to drop by
whenever she could and then I could have her call the Turkish Airlines for
specific guidelines on my luggage.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rebecca sent a text message indicating we were to meet her
at a German-style restaurant near her house, we agreed to meet in front of her
apartment at 6:30 and walk from there. I forwarded the message to both Willoughby
and Luann, who both confirmed their attendance.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zarina came bearing two pieces of pastry from Vanilla Sky
and another present, a wall clock with images of Kyrgyzstan in the background. She
indicated she wanted to give me something I could look at all the time and
think of her. I have no idea how I’m going to pack this gift.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were able to sit down to a cup of coffee and the
pastries, talk about many topics and for me to give her some additional
teaching materials as well. She took the two dozen hangers I’d bought for the
apartment, the calendar I’d no longer use and some fridge magnets, too.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby came along and after chitchatting with Zarina,
the three of us left the flat so we could proceed to our respective
destinations. Zarina indicated a desire to see me one more time before my
departure, but I wasn’t so sure there’d be a chance for that.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The marshrutka dropped us off near Rebecca’s place and we
waited at the corner for Luann and the birthday girl to meet us. Rebecca came
accompanied by her boyfriend, Sasha, whom I hadn’t met before, and she was
wearing the pair of earrings I’d brought her from Kathmandu last year.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We then walked to a German/Russian restaurant where we sat
in a courtyard at what looked like picnic tables. I ordered a pair of German
sausages, grilled, and a salad along with carbonated water. When they came, the
sausages hadn’t been grilled, but fried and the salad contain bits of tough
beef pieces in it. No flat bread was available.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I learned that to make a toast, Russians first have to order
what they call a “chaser”, in this case, salted fish with sliced onions and
boiled potatoes. David and Daniel had joined us by then and the round of toasts
started getting a bit old as everyone of us had to offer a toast to Rebecca that
would sound somewhat different. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
There were no mosquitoes out, that was quite a relief, and
the conversation was animated. Most of the group members were planning on going
to the Alar Cha trek the next morning, so we discussed the logistics and agreed
on a place and time to meet. I shared a taxi with David to go back to my flat.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-34950072223137338422013-07-05T19:05:00.002-07:002013-07-05T19:05:38.570-07:00July 5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 5, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Up at the crack of dawn again determined to start the
packing process in earnest. Had my cup of coffee, answered emails and reviewed
Facebook postings before having the last of the flat bread, some pieces of
cheese and hot chocolate for breakfast.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
According to the website provided by Georgetown University,
Turkish Airlines accepts one carry-on bag(up to 22 lbs.) and two suitcases not
exceeding 50 lbs. each for each traveler. It seems exceedingly generous to me
and I wouldn’t be surprised if I find out at the airport that those guidelines
might have changed. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In any event, I got one bag completely packed and it weighed
22 kilos or 48.4 pounds. Not too bad considering it contained most of my shoes
and some of the presents I was given at the end of some of the seminars I
offered here. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was time to head to the Peking Duck restaurant to meet
with Gulnara from lingua for a farewell meal. I stood at the corner where we
agreed to meet doing a bit of people watching as she was running late. Women were
going by decked out in outrageous colors and flowing dresses that went down to
their ankles. It was such a contrast to the drab clothes they wore all winter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyz-nkePMU60szW5tnJEgC11iEfZR-Oa_kESViQ31b0z8lJsixt-gIkac_x8X78-mj41hl6hA-SbmsSjMY7eFlYBdMmjj0jG5zvmfCtNPl3SlmDRdM7LbhZUdJvw20TdvFYV5Cmzppzfc/s1600/summer.jpg3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyz-nkePMU60szW5tnJEgC11iEfZR-Oa_kESViQ31b0z8lJsixt-gIkac_x8X78-mj41hl6hA-SbmsSjMY7eFlYBdMmjj0jG5zvmfCtNPl3SlmDRdM7LbhZUdJvw20TdvFYV5Cmzppzfc/s320/summer.jpg3.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once at the restaurant, we both offered the fish dish with
vegetables I had always liked when Lingua catered meals from this restaurant
and I requested mine very spicy. We both ordered a beer, non-alcoholic for
Gulnara who needed to be present at two meetings that afternoon, and a regular
one for. My Baltika 7 came in with the now ubiquitous straw inside.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our conversation geared toward my future plans, none
specific yet, the feedback received from the CATEC participants, lots of
complains about the food, past fellows at Lingua and, of course, Forum and its
machinations insofar as the election of a new president was concerned.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The luncheon was much more congenial than I could possibly
imagine since we never veered into what could have been but never was field. At
the end, Gulnara insisted on going next door to a souvenir shop to buy me a
present in the name of Lingua. We chose a light purple scarf and matching felt
earring for me and then said goodbye.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlkIi_YCPZjkbhDyO7u9upUNYYc0I7CvJzyAylH8txz210AOee0SrIOERl3Me15dzAp5CCImhObC-VjXBgzrOGyl4bank9rcNcVTOSSXks4pOYkbREW-tQaAkvduO5dg79noMZEAmMCQ/s1600/lunch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlkIi_YCPZjkbhDyO7u9upUNYYc0I7CvJzyAylH8txz210AOee0SrIOERl3Me15dzAp5CCImhObC-VjXBgzrOGyl4bank9rcNcVTOSSXks4pOYkbREW-tQaAkvduO5dg79noMZEAmMCQ/s320/lunch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Her driver approached me to say goodbye and wanted to drop
me off at home, but I had agreed to meet Willoughby at Sierra Coffee nearby. I
found her at one corner doing her knitting as usual. After chitchatting for a
bit, we made our way back to my flat so she could conduct an inventory of those
things she wanted from my apartment before we placed the rest in the suitcase
for the Peace Corps volunteers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We agreed on Willoughby coming by next Thursday after her
foot laser treatment and then hopping on a taxi to deliver the suitcase to the
Peace Corps compound to then head to her apartment with the things she’s
keeping such as the coffeemaker, coffee grinder and assorted grocery items.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgR6pFeaIMkisNcz3p355LH8qBr5kXBEoOZYW2R2-ix8lul-jQcEaFuUrvNi3v67f1hVStYdruThkLd0KnrbZydGr3Tj6EWXkGhCfDvGSMS7xwBdQ8gj90NlcXhb_Zmb2vBH6S1iuP6DY/s1600/summer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgR6pFeaIMkisNcz3p355LH8qBr5kXBEoOZYW2R2-ix8lul-jQcEaFuUrvNi3v67f1hVStYdruThkLd0KnrbZydGr3Tj6EWXkGhCfDvGSMS7xwBdQ8gj90NlcXhb_Zmb2vBH6S1iuP6DY/s320/summer.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0siCoRg9sb1O-tPNfiG_-VFByYvp1w_9F8fhnMlcr-fDcteLtIxQyxjukXHUdUBJdz98rXNSGt51ECAaNkCMkFqXs5PAh8i4hzr0F-P43uNMMoXMzPyYKfdGDl1TGrzPbN-VkywiPqs/s1600/summer.jpg2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0siCoRg9sb1O-tPNfiG_-VFByYvp1w_9F8fhnMlcr-fDcteLtIxQyxjukXHUdUBJdz98rXNSGt51ECAaNkCMkFqXs5PAh8i4hzr0F-P43uNMMoXMzPyYKfdGDl1TGrzPbN-VkywiPqs/s320/summer.jpg2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I called Gulnara from Forum once again to ask about the photos
I need to complete my report for the embassy and to determine when she’d come
by to pick up the two boxes of books and miscellaneous things I’m donating to
the association. She claimed to have trouble finding the specific photos, but
would try again that evening when she got home.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
She also promised to come by tomorrow around three with someone
who has a car to help transport the boxes to the Chinese Institute where Forum
has an office, or something that looks more like a storage room anyway.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-23512317054588401802013-07-04T19:44:00.001-07:002013-07-04T19:44:04.830-07:00July 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 4, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Diana had agreed to come by before nine in the morning to
pick the rent payment in lieu of my landlady who was leading a group of
trekkers into the mountains at this time. When she didn’t show up, I called her
and rearranged the time to around noon.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The weather felt a bit cooler when I stepped outside my building.
I stopped at the ATM to withdraw what I hoped would be my last cash one, so I
could pay the dentist the $80.00 he’d be charging for a dental cleaning. I had
goggled the clinic and it placed it right across the International University, a
place I knew very well.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I walked up and down the street, but was unable to find a
sign for the clinic. I called the place and the receptionist, who spoke little
English, said someone would call me back. We went back and forth several times,
but no one could explain how I could go from the university to their clinic. I
got fed up and went back home.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Diana came by and collected the $220.00 I had to pay to stay
at the apartment until late Thursday the 11<sup>th</sup>. When I mentioned my
dilemma about not wanting to go to the airport too early in the evening, Diana said
the person entrusted to collect the keys and the payment for the utility bills
lived right around the corner and could come as late as 11:00 pm if I wanted
to. We agreed on that time for sure. What a relief!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I spent the rest of the afternoon working on my expense
report engaging in the tedious task of scanning every single receipt, in case
of loss of its original, completing an explanation sheet for each, and
attaching the original to it. I had a chance to go through all the paperwork on
my desk and discarded what I no longer needed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby called to say she’d come from the picnic at the
U.S. Embassy, which had been pretty much a rerun of the previous day’s affair
with the same band playing music and the food being served cold. She mentioned
the Peace Corps volunteer constituted the largest contingent as they’d come
from all over the country just for the celebration.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I told her about Rebecca calling to set up a dinner date for
Saturday night to celebrate her birthday. I had called Damira, who’d invited me
to her house on the same night, to postpone it for Sunday and she had been OK
with doing so. Willoughby agreed to go as well. I sent Luann a text message to
see if she wanted to join us for the celebration, too.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Amanda and David had also been present, and Amanda reiterated
her plans to visit the Alar Cha forest on Sunday for a good hike. I sent her a
message through FB to see what the arrangements would be in terms of place and
time where to meet before the departure for the park.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-69879327515353439592013-07-03T18:39:00.000-07:002013-07-03T21:35:28.460-07:00July 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 3, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When daylight starts streaming through my bedroom window
now, before five in the morning, I have no choice but to get up as sleep simply
eludes me. Having an ever-growing list of things to do before my departure
doesn’t help any. Laira sent me an SMS indicating she’d be coming by after her
Zumba class across the street. I busied myself downloading last year’s expense
report to model the format for the one this year and save myself some time.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When Laira came in, she turned down my offer of coffee and
requested water instead. She mentioned she was leaving next week as well to
spend the summer in the Dominican Republic with her family. When I mentioned my
departure date was Friday the 12<sup>th</sup>, she double checked her itinerary
on her smart phone and found out we’ll be on the same flight out of Bishkek.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I risked asking her if I could spend the few hours of the
evening at her house before heading to the airport as I needed to return the
key to the apartment at a reasonable time on Thursday the 11<sup>th</sup>. She first
protested saying they’d be no room in the SUV for me because of her two girls
and all the luggage. I told her I could afford to pay for my own taxi.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In essence, without saying “no” to my face, she tried to
convince me it’d be better if I worked with my landlady to try and stay here as
late as possible so I could get some rest before the ride to the airport. That
was a brutal and extremely humiliating experience. And to think I still have a
possible encounter at the airport and the possibility of sitting very close to
her family for the five hour flight to Istanbul.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I prepared another one of my Tajik outfits to go to the
reception at the U.S. Embassy as the dress code called for a national dress or
business suit, and it was too hot to consider wearing my pantsuit. I had enough
time to go to the currency exchange place and get enough soms to settle my debt
with Willoughby.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I engaged the services of a taxi driver who’d been sitting
in front of my building. He spoke no English at all and I almost no Russian,
but I managed to tell him to go straight on Manas and he thought I was going to
either the Turkish Manas University or the Bishkek Humanities one, but I said
to continue straight. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I could see the long line of cars pulling into the embassy’s
compound, but taxis weren’t allowed in, so I was dropped off at the curb and
had to walk the rest of the way. Natalia had said I’d need my passport to get
in, but in fact the invitation card itself contained a code that could be
scanned thus making it unnecessary to show ID. That was a first. Going through the X-ray machine, my camera was detected and
immediately confiscated. It really made no sense since a lot of people were
taking photos throughout the event using their smart phones anyway.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I got on the receiving line and at the end of it was the
ambassador herself, Pamela Spratlen, whom to this day no one had bothered to
introduce me to. There must be an unwritten rule somewhere in the Foreign
Service mentality that believes fellows must carry some kind of contagion and
must be kept away from the ambassador.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVAQkNY8IGax8hn7LxKUCe9LhWqduXXjqTDtMQaOw59KsK13CvGHSUCYftiOm6GJwggG1olojDzoZRltXI9V3MlpM7YrF129COTWuc5ByGPCARt71mz6XABjuao_Zk6S7XvIGpzBCAGL8/s547/embassy.jpg3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVAQkNY8IGax8hn7LxKUCe9LhWqduXXjqTDtMQaOw59KsK13CvGHSUCYftiOm6GJwggG1olojDzoZRltXI9V3MlpM7YrF129COTWuc5ByGPCARt71mz6XABjuao_Zk6S7XvIGpzBCAGL8/s320/embassy.jpg3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had already being in her presence several times, but had
never shaken her hand. I got to do so this day, but I’m sure she still has no
idea as who I’m and my purpose for being in Kyrgyzstan. The event was been held
outdoor and several tents had been assembled for food and drinks with small
tables to accommodate those items but no chairs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Natalia was standing nearby and came to greet me. She took
me to the group where Bill, from the Peace Corps, and both Gulnaras were standing.
I then turned around and found Elvira nearby, one of the pre-service teachers
and Anna and Natasha as well. I still don’t understand why Peace Corps
volunteers weren’t invited to this event.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anna and Natasha commented on my Tajik dress and wanted to
know why I hadn’t chosen a Kyrgyz one. The point seemed like a moot one to me
since neither one of them was wearing anything remotely Kyrgyz, but I politely
told them I had found no dresses in cotton or linen suitable for the summer
with the Kyrgyz designs in it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They both claimed I could go to Tsum and find some as well
as the Orto Sai bazaar, where I had already been and found nothing of interest.
I promised to look into the matter even though I only had a week to go before
my departure. Anna expressed surprise as the immediacy of my leave and for the
first time asked what state I’d be going back to.<br />
<br />
I ran into David, the guy doing research for his doctorate that Rebecca had brought to the last book club, and I introduced him to them, and later on to Bill, the PC guy. I hardly recognized David at all as he had cut his hair and was a bit dressed up although he wore jeans, a no-no for a diplomatic reception. He told me Rebecca wasn't around as she was working in Issyk-Kul.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At 7:00 pm, the marines started their march toward the
stage, the entrance steps to the embassy, then the ambassador welcomed everyone
and had an older guy decked out in a Kyrgyz outfit sing the Kyrgyz national anthem,
which I had never heard before. He had a melodious voice and sang beautifully,
so at one point many of the locals started to sing along with him, something we’d
normally never do. The American anthem followed sang by a stout
African-American woman.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5yoczqXySsUyVo7lFFjU5BDuUiXoJoNneqam5wvElWVEMR3XiKrOMaQ67gdFZGKcBuz_Y36XZXD5fSxYa4odpwjSxSNg9Q9K83v-z9oLl6ss-kK1wavkp-bZBHT2SCdwPBdorUP6BT8/s640/kyrgyz+national+anthem-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5yoczqXySsUyVo7lFFjU5BDuUiXoJoNneqam5wvElWVEMR3XiKrOMaQ67gdFZGKcBuz_Y36XZXD5fSxYa4odpwjSxSNg9Q9K83v-z9oLl6ss-kK1wavkp-bZBHT2SCdwPBdorUP6BT8/s320/kyrgyz+national+anthem-a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was time to give the usual political speeches about our
independence, democracy and cooperation between nations. The ambassador could
speak quite a few phrases in Kyrgyz, which really impressed me, but had an interpreter
who repeated everything in Russian. A Kyrgyz minister then addressed the crowd
in both Russian and English.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When the speeches were done, food was brought out, and everything
was cold: mini burgers, hot dogs, cheese wrapped in dough and chicken wings
along with an array of condiments. A fruit platter and a vegetable one rounded
out the offerings. I had picked up a glass of beer earlier, but didn’t find it
to my liking. Coca-Cola had apparently sponsored the event and their soda was the only alternative drink, so drank nothing with my meal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I passed on the hot dogs, but got a mini burger, some
condiments and a couple of chicken wings. I repaired to one of the tables where
the two women spoke only Kyrgyz apparently. Anna and Natasha joined me later
and we chitchatted about the picnic scheduled for the same location tomorrow as
I wondered if a grill would be available or if they’d be catering everything
like today.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anna thought I should return to the embassy to find out, but
I told her I had no interest in being out there in the sun for the simple
purpose of getting a hamburger and would be going to the dentist instead. She wanted
to know the location of the dental clinic and when I said it was near my house,
she shot back she didn’t know where I lived. I wondered why that was the case.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The two Kyrgyz women had left their trash behind, so I took
their plates to the trash can and found an American couple now talking to Anna
and Natasha. It gave me the perfect gateway to leave as I told them that they
were in good hands now. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once outside the compound, one of the security guards told me to walk to
the next intersection if I needed a taxi. I did so and instead of a taxi, a
marshrutka came by, so I and a man who had been standing there as well got on
with me. This marshrutka didn’t pick any other passengers and then its driver informed us
he was done for the day.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had to take another marshrutka home, but it certainly beat
the 200 soms I’d paid for the taxi ride going in.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-56939717643667748392013-07-02T19:33:00.001-07:002013-07-02T19:33:59.285-07:00July 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 2, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Unable to sleep again as I try to keep track of all other
tasks left undone, I got up before five to continue working on my final report,
which needs to be a minimum of ten pages in length.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Laira had promised to come for coffee at ten, so I cooked a sort
of ratatouille adding the carrots, onions, garlic, eggplant, cabbage and
peppers I had at hand. The kitchen turned into a steaming sauna before I was
done. I did the dishes and set aside the heavy pot, cutting board and salt and
pepper shaker I was going to take to Zarina.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Laira later texted to say one of her daughters was running a
fever and she wouldn’t be able to come after all. I did a couple loads of
laundry and could finally close up the kitchen and turn on the A/C unit to cool
off the flat.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Natalia called to ask if I had retrieved the embassy’s
invitation to a reception to celebrate Independence Day tomorrow. I notified
her I had just learned about it and would pick it up late in the afternoon. She
felt it was important that I be present for this event as I was considered a
member of “the family”. I said I’d try to make it as it’d be held across the
street from the embassy’s compound and hopefully getting in wouldn’t be an
ordeal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Called the dental clinic and got an appointment for Thursday
morning to get my teeth cleaned. Damira called to say she was in the area and
wanted to come in earlier than we had agreed to. She had lunch with me, viewed
the photos from the CATEC gathering and was convinced to open up a profile page
on Couch Surfing so she could have a chance to meet with other foreigners to
continue to practice her English.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was as hot as the Dickens when set foot outside to get on
the trolley. I used my big shopping bag to carry the items I was giving Zarina
which constituted a problem when riding the trolley as it was packed with
people even on such a sweltering day. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zarina was at her desk and gave me a big hug when she saw
me. She had photos on her cell phone of the place where the building of her new
house is taking place and I took a look at them. She wanted to know if Lingua
was giving me some kind of farewell party, and I said I hoped not.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leila, Anna, Aigul, Asel, Larissa and Gulnara were all in
the office still, and I got the perfunctory greeting from all of them while
confirming lunch on Friday with Gulnara. Having nothing else to do there,
Damira and I proceeded to take a marshrutka to the Christian Orthodox Church I’d
seen several times and wanted to take photos of for my collection.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was not able to go inside the church because I lacked a
scarf to cover my head while a guy wearing track pants, a T-shirt and tennis
shoes stood inside admiring the architectural details. I tell you, these
churches can be so ridiculous when it comes to attire, but what really burns me
is that it’s only applicable to women in all of them. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took yet another marshrutka to the Faisa Café and arrived
there at ten to six. Willoughby called me a few minutes earlier to say she was
at the corner of Sovietskaya, too far. She was to take another marshrutka to
join us at the café.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We saw no signs of any foreigners inside and even asked one
of the servers, but they hadn’t noticed any group of foreigner gathering yet. Willoughby
arrived wearing the dark blue skirt I’d given her in Saint Petersburg. She looked
great in it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At six o’clock on the dot, Jana and Alex arrived with a
small sign reading “CS”. I had notified one of the waitresses that we’d need at
least two tables pushed together as we were expecting between 7-8 people. We placed
the sign facing the entrance and made a round of introductions. Jana and Alex
are from Germany and have been traveling by motorcycle around the Eurasian
continent.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We then had someone from Turkey, Cate, a guy from Canada, an
American from Saint Petersburg, FL, someone from Russia and at least six locals
wanting to meet foreigners mainly to improve their conversational skills. I
ordered a variation of lagman with rice instead of noodles, a salad and water
as the place doesn’t serve alcohol, but what I really wanted was a very cold
beer.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our conversation or several of them at some point, revolved
around the difficulties of getting visas to travel around Central Asia and
China. We all shared funny anecdotes about dealing with corrupt or incompetent
border crossing officers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The food was disappointing, bland to say the least. Alex
asked if he could finish my meal and I was more than happy to oblige. The heat
was oppressive as the tables are set very close to each other and there wasn’t
even a ceiling fan to provide some breeze. I begged to leave at about 7:40, but
we had settled the account all together and by the time we were finished,
everyone else was ready to go.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cate and Damira walked with me to my intersection, and then
we bid each other goodbye. Damira indicated she wants to have me come over to
her house Saturday night.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-36899244445634919282013-07-01T23:24:00.001-07:002013-07-02T16:08:58.288-07:00July 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
July 1, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
First business of the day was notifying my sister that I was
up and ready to skype with her and my brother-in-law so we could map out a plan
for my arrival. We made a tentative plan for me to stay at their house while I
get my car registration up-to-date and other details.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Having a long list of tasks to achieve before my departure
on the 12<sup>th</sup>, I set out to call and email a lot of people to get
things done. First of all was Gulnara at Lingua whom I informed I’d be working
from home to complete all the reports due to Georgetown and the embassy prior
to my departure.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I also inquired, again, about my session for their ESP seminar
so I could add it to my calendar. As a goodwill gesture, I also extended an
invitation to lunch so we could summarize what had happened these past nine
months. She replied by saying the trainers had enough staff members to fill all
the slots for the seminar and that my presence wasn’t required.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We agreed to have lunch on Friday and then she informed me
that an invitation card from the U.S. Embassy for a reception on July 3 had
been dropped at Lingua for me to pick it up. I agreed to do so on my way to the
meetup for couch surfers taking place nearby tomorrow evening.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I found three angry mosquito bites on my right leg only,
which meant they were able to bite right through my jeans during my visit at
the cemetery. The bites continued to swell and itch as the day progressed and
made it impossible to cross my legs at all. How I loathe mosquitoes!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I heard from Willoughby that Jennifer had squealed on her to
Peace Corps about her making negative comments about the food during CATEC and
her habit of knitting even when the ambassador was speaking. She was forced to
write a note of apology to Jennifer even though it clearly pointed out that the
food had been unpalatable. Good for her!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Asel confirmed that his student, Rasur, wanted to buy my
laptop. He called subsequent to our email and promptly came by with the $100.00
payment I had asked for it. When asked if he wanted a receipt, since we agreed
I could keep the laptop until the 10<sup>th</sup>, he didn’t understand. I
proceeded to write, print and sign a receipt acknowledging the receipt of the
money and the delivery date.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Diana, a friend of my landlady, had agreed to buy my
backpack and sleeping bag as they are now running a business that caters to
tourists wanting to go trekking overnight. We agreed on $50.00 for the
backpack, which was almost new, and $40.00 for the sleeping bag because Diana
claimed tourists demand that an additional piece of linen be inserted in the
sleeping bag for hygienic purposes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I needed to reimburse Willoughby for the money she’d loaned
me during the travels in Russia since my own credit card had been useless
there. I had taken careful notes of the expenditures and emailed her with my
summary. We both agreed it was correct, so I’ll reimburse her tomorrow at the
meetup.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I informed Cate about the meetup so she’ll have an
opportunity to meet the local organizers. I also emailed Luann, spoke to Damira
and Willoughby and they all agreed to go except for Luann who already had a commitment.
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jennifer and Gulnara from Forum both replied indicating they’d
received the notification to complete the ELF letter of recommendation and were
hoping to do so soon. I also completed the last four highlight reports for the
embassy and RELO for which Jennifer indicated her appreciation. No word from
Johanna.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As I was preparing to complete my final expense report for
the entire ten months I’ve been here, I occurred to me that most of the
receipts I had for the purpose of photocopying and laminating materials had
been printed on very low quality paper and the dates were either illegible or
missing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I wrote to Jennifer, Johanna and Gen, at Georgetown, to see
if it’d be possible for me to combine all receipts into one-line item in the
report as I’d been given a budget of $200.00 for such expenses. Gen was the
only one to reply in the positive.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My brother-in-law reminded I was going to order a new laptop
from amazon.com and then emailed him the confirmation as I was going to use
their address for shipment. I did so and then remembered I also needed a stylus
pen for my tablet and got those ordered together. The laptop is expected to
arrive on the 9<sup>th</sup>, three days before my arrival.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
What a hectic day and without even setting a foot outside my
flat!</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-65983607454358572422013-06-30T17:30:00.000-07:002013-06-30T17:30:04.491-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 30, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Slept relatively well and got up at six to get ready as Cate
was coming by at eight to take me to visit the cemetery and the Osh bazaar.
Coffee tasted better than ever as I sat at my computer to read emails and FB
postings.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cate was on time and I quickly finished eating my toast with
the Nutella spread before heading out to Manas Avenue. We waited for the right
marshrutka to come by and when it didn’t, Cate suggested we get a cab since she
wasn’t sure about the marshrutka number anymore.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was a long ride, past the U. S. Embassy, thus as far as
I’d gone before, until we reached a turn off. The approach to the cemetery had
been lined with flower vendors and lapidary stores. The street in itself was
another pockmarked narrow lane where the asphalt had disappeared under the
weight of the years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were dropped off at a specific point and Cate led the way
to the grave sites she thought would be of interest to me because of their
headstones, extensive ironwork fences or crosses when the deceased was of a
Christian Orthodox background.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I learned that Russians of the Christian Orthodox faith
allow three days for the viewing of the body after it has been embalmed.
Friends and relatives gather for a meal after the burial, just like our wakes,
and then return nine days later for another celebration as that day marks the
day relatives believe the soul leaves the body for good.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was sad to see how many young people were buried at this
cemetery, mostly in their early twenties, and the extent to which their
relatives had gone to give them an almost opulent grave. I wondered how many
had died due to a drug overdose or car accidents.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had a good walk with my climbing over brambles and weeds
to get a better view and photo of some of the grave sites. We bought some cold
water on the way out and boarded a marshrutka to get to the Osh bazaar. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I only had rubles left in my wallet and thus it was
necessary to get to an exchange place where the clerk refused to take any of my
coins. I had noticed that they round out the sum to their benefit to avoid
handling any coins whatsoever.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was hungry by then, so we stopped right next door and
ordered a couple bowls of lagman soup. Cate turned down the flat bread, but I
had a small piece since I hadn’t eaten any since leaving Bishkek for Russia.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was then on to find the fly zapper we had seen at the
Vanilla Sky place, and we quickly found it for 300 som or about $6.25. I still
need to get an adapter to be able to charge it in the States, but I was happy
with my purchase.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We happened to be very close to the place selling souvenirs
and I headed that way immediately to get some felt earrings and additional silk
scarves for my friends back home. The price for the scarves had already gone
up, 400 som instead of the original 350 just a few weeks ago, and bought three
more.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cate was looking for shampoo, but I told her to please
accept the set of shampoo and conditioner I still had at home and which I’d
have no chance to use at all. She seemed reluctant at first, but then agreed to
the deal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We went across the street so I could buy a few vegetables to
cook at home this week. Carrots, cabbage, onions, cilantro, tomatoes, eggplants
and peppers quickly filled up several small bags and then I came across a
beautiful yellow melon and had to have one along with one piece of flat bread. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The #35 bus came by a few minutes later and deposited us in
front of my building. Cate came upstairs to help me with my bags and then took
the bottles of shampoo and conditioner. There’s still another park she wants
for me to see before my departure and will arrange for it later on this week.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I got to take a long shower, did my hair and changed into
one of my favorite short night gowns to be completely relaxed for the rest of
the afternoon. I then set out to update my application for the EFL program to
keep it active just in case something comes up that would right up my alley.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I sent requests for letters of recommendation from both
Gulnaras and from Willoughby as well. I notified Jennifer of my intentions
hoping she’ll second my application by confirming I had done a decent job while
working under her supervision. It’s now out of my hands what ultimately
happens.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-89438740138959740272013-06-29T18:25:00.001-07:002013-06-30T02:50:26.787-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 29, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had agreed to meet with Ekatarina for coffee today, and she
chose 11:00 am as the right time for her. We settled on Vanilla Sky so I could
continue to work on updating my blog entries until she got there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We sat in the glassed-in terrace which features a cascade of
water falling quietly over the glass windows. I have no idea what feat of
engineering allowed that to happen. She had brought me a gorgeous pair of earrings to match the garnet ring I got in Nepal years ago. We both ordered latte, and then I decided
to peruse the selection of pastries inside and settled for one covered with
coconut flakes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was told it was 60 som and that was reasonable, but when I
asked the clerk to send it to my table in the terrace she told me that was the
price if I wanted the pastry to go, but to eat it in the restaurant, it would
cost me 100 som. I turned it down simply refusing to go along with such an
idiotic notion.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cate, as Ekaterina prefers to be called, was a participant in
the workshops I offered at the Russian Slavonic University back in November. She’s
currently teaching test preparation classes for the American University of
Central Asia. She’d been the only participant at that university to ever show
any interest in receiving additional materials and to have kept in touch until
now.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After talking for a couple of hours, we discovered we’re
truly kindred souls. We constantly strive to become better professionals at
what we do, we like to stay informed and think critically about the issues
facing humanity, love to read and watch films that portrait life as it really
is while generously offering our knowledge and resources to anyone who can
benefit from it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In addition, we’re feisty women who refuse to be cowered
when we see an injustice being committed anywhere and against anyone. Clearly,
such posture can bring negative repercussions, which we’re willing to deal with
instead of becoming just another “Yes” person.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I noticed a server going around with an object that looked
like a small racquetball, but which was being used to zap flies inside the
terrace. When I inquired about it, Cate told me it was a product made in China
that can be charged overnight and then used to kill flies, something like a
taser. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I immediately demanded to know where I could buy one for my
mom as I know she goes berserk when flies get inside her house. Cate offered to
go with me to the Osh bazaar tomorrow since I still want to buy a few felt
earrings for my friends in Florida and she reassured me I could find the fly
taser there as well. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took a walk in the park behind my building, the one I
hadn’t had time to explore yet and sat in bench to talk for hours. We now have
plans to visit a Christian Orthodox cemetery early tomorrow morning, as she’s
learned about my obsession with cemeteries, and then later on to the Osh
bazaar. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cate accompanied me to the convenience store across the
street so I could buy some take out items for dinner and then I showed her the
apartment. We ran into the cleaning lady
on the stairs and she informed Cate that I was behind on the payment for such
services. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cate promised to send me some links to movies she’s seen
online that dealt with the issues of corruption, government lying campaigns,
the big business religion is and others. I’m so fortunate to have found someone
like her just a few days before my departure.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My landlady came around five to inform me she’d be out of
town until the 14 of July. I, in turn, informed her I needed to keep the
apartment beyond the original July 1 date since I’d now be leaving earlier than
planned and would not be making the trip to Dushanbe that I’d dreamed about so
long.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
She agreed to my paying on a day-to-day basis and designated
her girlfriend to come and pick up the payment and the key on the 11<sup>th</sup>
of July. She reassured me the girlfriend still wanted to buy both my sleeping
bag and backpack. I was surprised as to how easy going she was about the whole
thing. She, in turn, remarked as to how cool the apartment was with only the
one A/C unit on.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-17267406798428769272013-06-29T07:48:00.003-07:002013-06-29T07:48:49.111-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 28, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Up at the usual time still fuming about the incident the
previous night. Went down to the dining room for breakfast hoping that Jennifer
might have left already for Astana and I would not have to face her again. A few
minutes after I sat at the table, Jennifer came down with Natalia and sat at
the table next to ours.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Salads graced the table, but no coffee. When asked about it,
the server brought a small quantity in a tea bowl and acted surprised when we
asked for cups. He indicated the kitchen had no cups that morning. I had
another meltdown and asked him how it was possible that the kitchen had had
over 200 cups the previous afternoon, but now expected their guests to drink
coffee from a tea bowl.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
He gave me a blank look and I just stormed out of the room. Willoughby
called me from the hallway and asked why I had left her behind and I apologized
profusely to her. I had a few pieces of pastries to eat and Willoughby offered
another envelope of 3-in-1 to go with it until we could have lunch.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The bus was expected to pick us up at 1:00, but at 12:20 the
dining room was still no ready for us to eat. When the food did arrive, it was
buckwheat, something I also detest. The vegetarian plate: buckwheat with slices
of tomatoes and cucumbers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I saw someone with a plate of salad and found out a variety
of salads had been laid out near the kitchen door and headed there to fill my
stomach with at least some greens. Corrie, Annah, Sarah and Asia shared the
table with me and we all talked about life after our stint in Central Asia. I
mentioned I had no plans beyond getting to Florida as soon as possible.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby left the table to secure the two front seats for
us as soon as the bus arrived. We had packed before lunch and were ready to go.
The tourist bus, the big one with wide windows, was designated for the
delegates from other countries and the ones for Kyrgyzstan were sent to the
marshrutkas. We ended up in a pretty new one with plenty of elbow room.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Elvira sat behind us never uttering a sentence. I guess she’d
decided that as long as Willoughby sticks around me, neither one of us exists. The
driver chose to drive through the old road heading to Tokmok since some of the
teachers wanted to be dropped us along the way. The drive was long and tedious
as we got into heavy rush hour traffic as we reached Bishkek.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby and I shared a taxi to our respective places. I
was simply delighted to be back at my place and hopeful I could get a full
night sleep.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-14214885338516661902013-06-29T07:24:00.000-07:002013-06-29T07:31:42.130-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 27, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby knocked on my door by 7:30 so we could go
together to have breakfast. More salads were on display on the table, but no
coffee or cream. There were some cold cuts and bread so I made another sandwich
while David joked around the table.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The first presentation I attended had to do with teacher
training and critical thinking, but I can’t remember a whole lot about it. The presenter
ran through her slides extremely fast and was done in less than the forty
minutes allotted. Since there was another presentation going on right behind
her, I sidled up to it and caught the tail end of a workshop on teaching
proverbs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I asked the presenter if I could have her email it to me and
she referred me to her FB link to the “Shaping the Way we Teach English”
website where her group in Kazakhstan had uploaded other materials as well. I
got lost in the maze of corridors looking for the next presenter only to find
out she had been moved to the same room I had just left.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here we did an exercise writing a poem about our origins
which reminded me of the ones my students had done when I taught secondary
school. Ann McAllen returned with a workshop on global issues ELF teachers
should engage their students in and was mesmerized by all the different
possibilities and websites she mentioned. I added the “Upcycle” website to her
list of ideas for recycling, reusing and remaking.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was time for Willoughby to present and she had been given
a tiny room with no laptop or PowerPoint. Willoughby, who had never put
together a presentation had done so this time, but was told she not requested any
equipment on her original application and there would be none available now.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In spite of that, and using notes in the old-fashioned way,
she conducted a thrilling workshop on how to write rubrics that matched the objectives
of the lesson. I helped my group write a rubric for speaking activities and got
it done within the time allotted. She received effusive comments from the
participants and requests for additional information as well.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lunch was just slightly better with the same salad as the
day before, but lamb and potatoes for the main course. I sat with a group of
Tajik teachers and learned they taught at the same university as the teacher
with whom I had conducted the Access summer camp last year in Khorog. They all
knew Mabluda and best of all, knew all about the vocabulary I’d given her and
the fly swatters to play games. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They couldn’t believe they were sitting in front of the same
trainer Mabluda had spoken about so often. They also mentioned that they still
play the games I had taught her but couldn’t say if she continued to work for
the Access program.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby and I attended two sessions on critical thinking
and reading from university professors who taught in both Kyrgyzstan and
Uzbekistan. Both presentations were quite engaging and each teacher allowed me
to copy it to my flashdrive for possible use in the future.<br />
<br />
During the coffee break, Jennifer called for a short meeting of all the EFLs to say how glad she'd been to have had a chance to work with all of us and that none of us would be returning to our respective posts. Toni decided to gush about Jennifer's skills as a RELO while I only asked about her policy regarding letters of recommendation. She was firm in saying she'd not issue general letters, but would reply to individual requests for specific jobs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After the coffee break, we listened to another plenary speaker
on the subject of the state of the profession and its professional development.
Jennifer said a few words of closing and then handed out certificates of appreciation
to all the English language coordinators at the respective embassies in Central
Asia.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tahmina, from Tajikistan, hadn’t been able to come to the
conference and I was glad to have been spared her presence during this event.
The staff at Lingua was called in and given a certificate for their efforts in
coordinating the entire event and even Anna was called to the stage. My name
never came up.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The weather was a bit more agreeable, so a walk on the lake
shore was in order. I convince Willoughby to take off her shoes and sandals as
I knew that walking on the sand is the best exercise for the legs. We ran into
quite a few other attendees doing the same and talked to them along the way. I
had brought my tablet and took some photos as well.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the way back, we saw Holly and three other female EFLs practicing
the Kazak dance for the cultural night event happening after dinner. I had
turned down the opportunity to participate as had already seen it in Shymkent and
found it extremely boring. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby decided to go back to the restaurant in the lobby
while I went to the dining room hoping the hotel would offer something special
for our last night there. There was a somewhat spicy salad on the table and I
sat next to Umed, from Tajikistan. Asel came by later on and sat next to me.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A DJ was playing music and soon a woman and another man
started singing songs that everyone seemed to know for most of the audience
could sing along with it. The main dish came and it was another disappointment:
two lumps of beef with no color or flavor and chunks of potatoes. I passed the
beef on to Umed and ate the potatoes along with Asel’s salad.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The cultural night was due to start at 8:30 and Willoughby was
nowhere to be seen. I went up to her room and convinced her to come and join us
as Asel had asked me to bring my flashdrive with Latin music so I could dance a
bit for the crowd.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tables were cleared and a center stage was set for each
country, starting with Tajikistan, to sing or dance as they pleased. I loved
listening to Tajik music again and seeing the graceful dancer from the Khorog
region in her traditional garb. The male dancers from Uzbekistan left me
breathless for their speed and agility. The Turkwomen sang a song in a manner I’d
never seen and would find difficult to explain.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kazakhstan followed with a dance by a woman with a tea pot apparently
trying to woo a male. The floor was then yielded to the American contingent and
Jennifer took the mike. I asked her quickly if she could allow two minutes for
me to play a merengue song and she nodded her assent.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
ELFs and Peace Corps volunteers played a variety of
instruments and country songs I had never heard before Holly and the other ELFs
took to the floor to do the Kazakh dance. The audience erupted in applause as
they usually do when Americans make fools of themselves.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Holly then instructed the DJ to play the “Cotton-eye Joe”
song we had listened to while learning line dancing in Almaty last January. She
asked everyone who had been at the mid-year conference to stand up and join
her, but I pretended not to hear for I hate line dancing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jennifer looked at me and said I needed to join the group
despite my protest that I didn’t remember any of the steps. She replied she
didn’t either and it was something to be done to demonstrate group spirit or
some other kind of drivel to the same effect. I felt I had no choice but to
jump and slide as best I could while the crow laughed uproariously. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Holly had yet another performance in which she and two other
girls played the role of cheerleaders and had Bill lift them sequentially into
each other’s backs to then jump forward. All of this was done to the most god-awful music at ear-splitting levels that you can possibly fathom. When Holly was done, Jennifer put
the microphone down and whispered to me that the Americans were out of time even though no signal had been sent to that effect.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I knew deep within me that the slight had not been
unplanned. She certainly doesn’t see me as an American, never has, and was not
about to let me play music she certainly doesn’t think reflect what the United
States is. As soon as the Kyrgyz representatives finished their performance, I
went to my room red in face with embarrassment and a deep sense of hate.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-20542685143021627532013-06-29T05:23:00.000-07:002013-06-29T05:50:54.405-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 26, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As it is usual for me, I could hardly sleep thinking about
my presentation on barriers to critical thinking. I got up early and looked
through the slides one more time and inserted the answers to the warm up
questions to save time.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I wore my long Tajik dress and got a lot of stares and looks
of confusion from many of the participants who couldn’t understand why an
African-looking woman was wearing an Uzbek/Tajik dress. Breakfast was the usual
rice porridge I detest, but small plates of salad had been placed on the table
along with slices of bread, salami and cheese.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I made a sandwich with those three items and had to request
coffee from one of the servers as none had been offered so far. Rich didn’t
even know coffee was on the menu for us. He related how he had stayed at the
Aurora Sanatorium twenty years ago while traveling with his son in the region.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We moved on to the cinema hall where the plenary was to take
place and listened to speeches from Gulnara from Lingua, Jennifer and the
ambassador. They yielded the floor to Ann McAllen who gave the plenary speech
about critical thinking and the mixed ability classroom which resonated with me
as she outlined many of the same strategies I use in my classroom.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I went to listen to the presentation on sideline coaching
which Chris had demonstrated at the mid-year conference in Almaty hoping to
hear how the teachers in Khorog had reacted to it. He’d brought his counterpart
with him and Nigina testified as to the usefulness of the technique and how
much it had benefited her in her professional development.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next presentation was intended to demonstrate the use of
critical thinking in the teaching of vocabulary, but the presenter’s flashdrive
didn’t open up and the PowerPoint presentation was not available. She read from
her notes, but that was pretty lifeless and boring. It was also her first time
presenting and she appeared very nervous.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was then my turn and unfortunately they had placed me in a large room that had been divided into two by a series of flimsy screens. I
could clearly hear the presenter in the other room and I’m sure he could hear
me, too. I had 33 attendees, a good number I’d say, and the warm up went very
well with some groups getting as high as six out of ten of the barriers to
critical thinking.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Natalia, from the embassy, came in a few minutes after I’d
started and sat at the back. The time just flew and forty minutes later I was
handing out my business card telling the teachers that the presentation would
be available to them via email. Willoughby took a couple of photos and
congratulated me at the end stating that the material had been very
instructive.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had enough time to catch part of Asia’s presentation on
teaching debate in the classroom and we really enjoy her bantering with the
teachers and her acting skills. It was then time for lunch, which Willoughby turned
down and went to her room to rest, while I appropriated an entire platter of
salad for my own.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Asia had told she had said she was vegetarian and the food
for vegetarians was usually of higher quality and fresher than otherwise. I
played that card and got a bowl of soup with some noodles and not even salt in it. The
main dish could not even be described, but David thought it might have been
bread dipped in egg and then fried. I took a bite and spit it back into a
napkin as it was simply vile.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After lunch, I went to see Sarah’s presentation on
alternative ways of assessing students. She has a background in public school
teaching and does an amazing job of demonstrating exactly what to do in
specific situations. Willoughby went to listen to David’s presentation on
critical thinking activities, which I had already seen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The last presentation I attended was led by an Uzbek teacher
who spoke English so fluently he could have almost passed for an American. He teaches
EAP and spoke about the uses of authentic texts. We spoke at the end and I
learned his university is accredited by the Westminster University in the UK
and that’s why they offered EAP classes. We exchanged business cards and
promised to stay in touch.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I changed clothes so Willoughby and I could take a walk
along the lake even though the skies had turned black and rain threatened to
start falling anytime. The temperature had dropped considerably and I was
wearing my beige shawl for protection. I thought I heard thunder in the
distance and then the rain started. We had to turn back to the hotel without
even seen the lake.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was dinner time by then and Willoughby refused to
entertain the notion of having another awful meal in the dining room and asked me to accompany her to one of the restaurants located near the lobby. I wasn’t so
keen on the idea for I knew it would be rather expensive, but caved in and
headed in that direction.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No one spoke English, so we were having a tough time making
sense of the menu when a group of attendees, all women, walked in and greeted
us. They had pre-ordered their meals and were ready to eat. They all commented
on how unpalatable the food had been for conference attendees. With their help,
we managed to order steak for Willoughby and salmon for me with French fries
and some kind of vegetable on the side.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It took over an hour for these two dishes to arrive as
apparently the restaurant was also supplying meals to the bar next door and
couldn’t cope with so many diners at once. The salmon was all right, the French
fries lukewarm only and no vegetables at all. When we inquired about it, they
told us to wait six minutes and then brought a medley of tomatoes, onions and
turnips that was quite delicious.<br />
<br />
As we were making our way to the elevator, we ran into Gulnara from Lingua and another woman and Gulnara asked if we were coming along to the mingle activity. I said I needed to drop some stuff at my room, but instead of going there, I took my other Tajik outfit to the ironing room on the second floor to get it ready for the next day.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I went to bed full as a tick and happy to have spent the
money on a good meal.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-20328213097628415472013-06-28T19:12:00.001-07:002013-06-30T21:03:18.900-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 25, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had set up my alarm for 6:30 just in case, but it wasn’t
necessary as I was up at five when light started to filter through my curtains.
I had packed almost everything I needed except for the laptop and a few snack
to bring along the way.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby showed up at 8:00 and we immediately grabbed a
taxi parked in front of the complex to take us to the terminal where a young
man brusquely grabbed our bags and took us to a marshrutka parked across the
street. I insisted we could only go with him if we got the two front seats. He
agreed and placed the our backpacks in his minivan and went out to search for
more passengers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We don’t know what happened, but all of a sudden, everyone in
the marshrutka exited it, picked up their bags and ran across the street. We did
the same and found a newer vehicle with the two front seats still available
which quickly filled in allowing us to be on the road at exactly nine o’clock.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had a pit stop at a new roadside restaurant where the
bathroom was spotless and odor-free. Why can’t other places imitate it? Sure,
the building was new, but the other places are also charging a fee that they
could invest into building toilets such as this one that don’t make you feel
like losing your lunch during your visit.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivvcv68IEB1nw43hzJnPk14tPeoV5plKFsiYs6u__k8mm7mgvI1AlYmZXn0S3JfFiQsGvjE4BY7BdXWxa62tD_pB1duED2JTaCqAuYZ-ZHPJH6bk2UFDThTdJJej9ujgodvOC7nrqz5PY/s1600/tablet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivvcv68IEB1nw43hzJnPk14tPeoV5plKFsiYs6u__k8mm7mgvI1AlYmZXn0S3JfFiQsGvjE4BY7BdXWxa62tD_pB1duED2JTaCqAuYZ-ZHPJH6bk2UFDThTdJJej9ujgodvOC7nrqz5PY/s320/tablet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
View of the landscape taken with my tablet camera at a pit stop<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we got into Cholponata, the driver indicated he’d
continue further down the road to deliver other passengers, so we were able to
get to the Green Pub without having to hire a taxi. We ordered a beer and the
pork steak with barbecue sauce as it was listed on the menu. It was as divine
as the first time with the fries being delivered piping hot as I like them.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The waitress called a taxi for us to take us directly into
the Aurora Sanatorium as neither one of us wanted to walk from the main road
carrying our luggage. It cost 300 soms and I agreed to pay it from my allowance
for the trip. The place is showing its age with the gray buildings losing some
of its concrete chunks in some places.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The pre-conference event was just breaking for coffee when
we walked into the lobby. Both Gulnaras, Jennifer, Natalia and others greeted
us until I said I needed to get to my room and get rid of my heavy shoulder
bag. Jennifer said: “Go, Ercilia. We don’t need you now.” To which I replied
tongue-in-cheek: “have you ever?” Jennifer didn’t find it funny at all.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Natasha, from Lingua, pulled me aside to say she really
needed for me to chair the meeting with the Peace Corps volunteers who were
going to organize the evening entertainment on Wednesday. I felt I had no
choice, but to say yes.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWz1RoTKqpPMbuSwsd5fVvRoUGhzVwuHOs_MoPh18mBVllZ_zgvDBp4PE_iW-7g6euNyj2zY0hp9Io6J2lpGTim9xkCMm6jAiqwvk5U-1ZI5fdSC02fyu25az_RuE4eCSqCS4RBvy1VQ/s1600/view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWz1RoTKqpPMbuSwsd5fVvRoUGhzVwuHOs_MoPh18mBVllZ_zgvDBp4PE_iW-7g6euNyj2zY0hp9Io6J2lpGTim9xkCMm6jAiqwvk5U-1ZI5fdSC02fyu25az_RuE4eCSqCS4RBvy1VQ/s320/view.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
View from my window<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPC7zx7BHcOStkNSw5GZ17dGyRpe5oiQT8Maw5Eqa2y_BybMcVdDRIoCc4xA-_YdPZxm0Spdn967h9hkezTiptv9nDstnUrlM-DTob6cm_6YocOhQU9UjXllHIRMKGa0FNonueLK7OZ0/s1600/view.jpg2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPC7zx7BHcOStkNSw5GZ17dGyRpe5oiQT8Maw5Eqa2y_BybMcVdDRIoCc4xA-_YdPZxm0Spdn967h9hkezTiptv9nDstnUrlM-DTob6cm_6YocOhQU9UjXllHIRMKGa0FNonueLK7OZ0/s320/view.jpg2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
View of the lake from my window</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby and I got rooms on the fourth floor facing the
lake. We each had a double bed, a night table, a piece of furniture that could
double as a desk, a small fridge and a teakettle and bowls to brew tea.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik2Rgq05OsCckE7sI5Rdtr3ZHIxWgR-XbvdDPwBinffh2COBwGfR-bsBJ0mse2gilG7PBhM7-3wFHv0Lam7_PlmpAvLx_pMO43WsgPS8d86FR9Y23j4i1XCOm7y8n5hsM3KQe-5qGW6_w/s1600/room.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik2Rgq05OsCckE7sI5Rdtr3ZHIxWgR-XbvdDPwBinffh2COBwGfR-bsBJ0mse2gilG7PBhM7-3wFHv0Lam7_PlmpAvLx_pMO43WsgPS8d86FR9Y23j4i1XCOm7y8n5hsM3KQe-5qGW6_w/s320/room.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyytVBnYlgomfevvyar572MUe1U5Dtu1p1Ex7khtnsrKRAOsL5-Pdk-WEnwwZTHfwyt68yga-cyEwevmfVBEDCDdrE-qkBkh4a1llUXGhAHTfYB4PVXN4BddTKEUB33YWXSqpr8n6DpY/s1600/room.jpg2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyytVBnYlgomfevvyar572MUe1U5Dtu1p1Ex7khtnsrKRAOsL5-Pdk-WEnwwZTHfwyt68yga-cyEwevmfVBEDCDdrE-qkBkh4a1llUXGhAHTfYB4PVXN4BddTKEUB33YWXSqpr8n6DpY/s320/room.jpg2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wi-Fi access was to be had only in the lobby unless I was willing to pay 100 soms a day for access in my room. The day was clear and the waters placid. I knew the water would still be too cold for me, but could see guests at the hotel coming back with towels over their shoulders.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
We went down for dinner at 7:00 and sat with a couple of
other Peace Corps volunteers. I wasn’t particularly hungry and had thought that
a bowl of soup or a salad could do for dinner. There was a mound of something
on a small plate at each seat, but for the life of me, I couldn’t tell what it
was. A local teacher said it was shredded chicken with melted cheese on top.
And that was supposed to be our salad!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The second course, if you can believe this, was a cornmeal
porridge. We were all looking around puzzled while trying to decipher whether
the kitchen staff had confused the times of day and thought they were cooking
breakfast instead of dinner. The porridge wasn’t bad once I tasted it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The main course was another mystery dish, as we started
labeling them, and even the Peace Corps volunteer who had offered to eat my
salad, couldn’t tell what it was, but said it tasted like meatloaf somewhat. Willoughby
ate nothing and I had the porridge just in case I could get the munchies later
on.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Peace Corps volunteer’s counterpart didn’t take lightly to
our derisive comments about the meal and asked me if I had tried beshbarmak, a
dish I’d come to loathe for its limp noodles, greasy flavor and excessive quantify
of meat. I said yes, three times in fact, and still didn’t like it. They both
felt I needed to visit the Naryn region to have a different experience, but I
thought to myself, spare me, please.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once dinner was over, I approached Natasha to find out where
our meeting to plan the evening entertainment was going to take place. I was
surprised to find both Gulnara from Lingua and Amanda present for it since I’d
thought no one but me was available. Gulnara spoke most of the time until we
agreed to just have a “Find someone…” form of mingle activity prior to the
raffle that Chynara had been assigned to carry out.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I really couldn’t see the purpose of my presence, and
Willoughby’s, at that meeting. </div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-90939421184610906262013-06-28T18:19:00.000-07:002013-06-28T18:19:23.864-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 24, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I got up at six feeling so groggy and disoriented that it
took me a few minutes to realize I was finally at home and could make coffee my
way. What a thrill!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I set out to email the e-book after doing a final spell
check and composing a somewhat lengthy email to accompany it mentioning its
origins and asking for the recipients to pass it on to their colleagues and
acquaintances. It was quite a relief to see the email being transmitted and knowing
it was off my hands at last.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby was the first one to write to congratulate me on
getting this task off my desk. That reminded me to forward the file to Bill
Perry, at the Peace Corps office here in Kyrgyzstan, as he had helped with it
initially, and for him to distribute it to the new volunteers. He wrote back to say the file was too large for the
volunteers’ email, but he was going to make sure that Nurkys, the TEFL
coordinator, arranged for them to bring a flashdrive and copy it into them.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Johanna wrote to approve my early leave request and indicated
she was going through a similar situation at home as well. I wrote reminding
her that I was still waiting her approval of my expenses related to the trip I
took to attend the conference Holly had organized in Shymkent and which I had
submitted last April. This time, she wrote back immediately and approved the
expense report.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby and I agreed to travel to Issyk-Kul on our own
instead of waiting until 1:30 pm to travel with the rest of the participants from
the Bishkek/Chuy area as we wanted to stop for lunch in Cholponata where we had
had some delicious pork chops last month.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I notified Georgetown of my change in travel itinerary and
Alisa replied immediately by sending me a tentative flight schedule that would
have taken me from Istanbul-New York City-Atlanta-Palm beach with another six
hour layover in Turkey, something I had vehemently requested they avoided.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I wrote to say I knew other fellows had gone home through
London and also knew I could fly directly to Palm Beach from either NYC or
Newark, NJ and couldn’t see the need to route me through that infamous airport
in Atlanta, Georgia. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At first, Alisa denied that flying through London was an
option, but later on sent me a revised itinerary where I’ll fly London-NYC-Palm
Beach getting into Florida at 9:06 pm instead of on the 13<sup>th</sup> after
midnight. I thanked her for her efforts and immediately notified my sister, so
she can make arrangements to pick me up that night.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ekaterina, one of the teachers who attended my teacher
training sessions at the Russian Slavonic University, sent a heartwarming message
indicating how useful the book was going to be for her classes since the tables
were so easy to follow and the exercises had answer keys to them. She wanted to get together before my departure, and we
agreed to do so next Saturday after my return from CATEC.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I sent Gulnara at Lingua a message notifying her of my early
departure and asking to confirm that my participation in her summer seminar
could take place between the 8 and 10<sup>th</sup> of July so as not conflict
with my new schedule of departure. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was great to have had a full day to myself, without any
interruptions, to catch up with so many tasks.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-26110907251072041492013-06-28T17:53:00.005-07:002013-06-28T17:53:59.549-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 23, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The flight from Saint Petersburg to Bishkek lasted five
hours. For the first time, I got to observe the moon shining on the left side
of the plane while the sun rose on my right. It was quite a thrilling
experience.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The airline had allowed me to bring on board my bulky
backpack since it was essentially empty, so we were able to skip customs and
just walked out where an older taxi driver offered to take us into the city for
a combined fee of 600 soms. While approaching my flat, Willoughby discovered
that she was missing her house key and I invited her to my place to make other
arrangements.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The key didn’t turn up in her handbag or backpack, so she
called her landlady who would not pick up her phone. I offered her coffee and
my couch if she still needed to sleep some more. I got to work on my many
messages and other tasks while she slept. When she woke up, there was still no return call from
Tatiana, so we went together to the supermarket nearby so I could buy water,
milk, juice and other staples. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Temperature outside was close to 100 degrees
Fahrenheit, and inside it didn’t feel much cooler.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Upon returning, I asked Willoughby to look through the
updated version of my resume to see if she had any suggestions. We worked on it
for a while as she felt my version was a bit too wordy and that I had overlooked
some significant points such as giving that speech in Shymkent.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tatiana finally called and agreed to meet Willoughby at her
flat by 4:00. I spent the rest of the day sending out emails to my RELO, the
embassy people and others asking to allow me an earlier leave, five days in
fact, so I could go home on the twelfth instead of the seventeenth. I explained
my mom’s condition and my desire to be there for her. Jennifer wrote back
immediately to say she was fine with it, but I still needed approval from the
PAO.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By the late afternoon, the kitchen and study area felt like
an oven, so I made sure all windows were closed and turned on the A/C unit to
see if it was capable of cooling off the entire apartment. It didn’t quite
reach the kitchen; I spend little time there anyway, but the study where my
computer is definitely felt more welcoming.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I made a firm commitment to sending out the e-book to
everyone before CATEC hoping to get some feedback from some of the
participants. I decided to add three more items and as result, I needed to
modify the entire index page and its numbering, but it was worth it because the
pages dealt with a the use of “so, too, either and neither”, which many
teachers here still get confused or don’t use at all. When it got to be half
past eleven, I went to bed exhausted, but almost done.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
My sinuses continued to feel clogged despite the medication.
It’ll probably take another week to clear my lungs completely.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-2178754096613289512013-06-28T06:43:00.000-07:002013-06-28T06:43:10.478-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 22, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I woke up a three o’clock having slept my required six
hours. Outside the kitchen window, a huge yellow moon shined. I was so
entranced by it that I wanted to record its existence and went to my bag to
retrieve my camera.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby had also gotten up complaining that the air
mattress had deflated and it was almost touching the floor. We used the
electric pump to add some air to it and I tried to go back to sleep, but was
unable to do so, I got up around four and did some reading of my own.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I cooked the remaining salami, heated up the bread and ate
some of it as I then found the salami to be way to too salty for my taste. I
took my shower first and then cleaned up the kitchen while Willoughby took
hers. She made the bed and then we packed everything to wait for Zhirdal to
come and pick us up at nine.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was afraid that Alexander might choose to let me keep the
set of keys so as not to return the additional money, but at ten to nine he
showed up with Irina and put a thousand note ruble on one of the stools and
pointed to it. I took the keys from my jean pocket and gave it to him.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Irina tried to say that she was hoping we’d not think that
all Russians were mafia type that were trying to get money from us dishonestly.
She felt we had made an arrangement for a three-day stay and should have paid
for all three days even if we didn’t make use of the flat the entire time. I
told her that she could tell we weren’t rich people traveling in style and that
we needed every ruble we could save. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I showed them the flat making sure they could tell that
every item they had left in it was still there and that the place was spotless
as well. Zhirdal met us at the entrance and took us in his car around the city
as he wanted to show us where he’d gone to school, the naval academy, and the
famous ship “Aurora” where the first blast was sounded that started the October
Revolution. We took some photos together, got his email and promised to send
them to him.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was really touched by his kindness and his overall concern
about these two foreign women traveling alone with knowledge of Russian so to
speak. After driving us around for over an hour, he pulled up at the main train
station and insisted on coming with us to check our bags for day while we
continued to tour the city. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once we got our tickets, he bid us goodbye and promised to
stay in touch. I had begged Willoughby to change our itinerary slightly as I
had read about a famous cemetery where the likes of Dostoevsky and Tolstoy were
buried and really needed to go and see it. The cemetery was part of a complex
containing a church, a palace and other installations. As usual, a separate fee
had to be paid to gain entrance to each one.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby wasn’t interested in paying 200 rubles, $6.25, to
see old graves, so she agreed to sit by the entrance and wait for me while I
did a fast run around the small cemetery train in vain to recognize any of the
names written in either Cyrillic or Latin to no avail. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Instead, I feasted my eyes on some of the most elaborate
tombstones I’ve ever seen made from materials ranging from plain stone to
marble and concrete cement. A few graves sported fresh flowers thus indicating
people still cared about those buried there. A few of the graves had cracked
and some were already sinking into the ground.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Back to the metro it was for the long ride to the proper
station so we could get to the Peterhof Fountains. Once at street level, I
tried to find a place to eat, but only found something like a pub where a bunch
of low lifes were watching a movie on a flat screen TV while shouting at it. I
ordered a solyanka soup and a cappuccino for Willoughby.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My soup was tasteless and it seemed to have been reheated
and the coffee was so bad Willoughby couldn’t drink it. It seemed as if they
had boiled milk and added it to instant coffee. The sun was high in the sky and
the temperature had risen considerably when I got in line to get us into the trolley
to get to the tourist trap.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We then paid another 50 rubles for the privilege of riding
for one full hour; I was standing while Willoughby sat, to be dropped off at
the entrance to the place where a long walk, in the sun, awaited us. This time
I really questioned my judgment for I had no need to boast about the fact that I
had seen the famed fountains.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby sat at the first bench she could find once inside
the property, and I went in search of the ticket booth to pay for my admission
ticket since she wasn’t interested in seeing it. When I turned another corner,
I found three long lines of people, in the sun, waiting to buy tickets. By the
looks of it, you’d think they were giving away something for free.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I turned around and left rejoining Willoughby who was more
than happy to see me come back so quickly. On the way out, I’d seen a poster of
the place and had to remark on the fact that the fountains looked awfully
similar to the ones I’d seen at the Vizcaya mansion in Miami. It almost looked
as if someone had seen that same poster and just copied the idea. I guessed I
didn’t really miss much by not seeing them.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had one more wish on my list and that had been to see at
least the exterior of the Marinski Theater, but Willoughby patiently explained we didn’t
have enough time to return to the main train station, retrieve our packs, get
something for dinner, and then ride the metro all the way south where it
connected with the bus that would eventually take us to the airport. A taxi
would have cost us around $60-70.00 for the same service.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After riding a marshrutka that charged us 70.00 rubles each,
we trudged back to the metro with the escalators appearing to be longer than ever.
At the main train station, we found an elegant coffee house, Café du Nord, that
purported have been functioning there since the 1800s. We had coffee and I ordered a piece of black bread to assuage my hunger since Willoughby wanted to
have dinner at the airport.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Backpacks at hand, we boarded the metro, connected with the
trolley and got to the airport by 8:00. We found a restaurant that offered
Wi-Fi and got to sit in the patio where a cool breeze was blowing. I was finally
able to totally relax knowing the hard part of the journey had been completed
and that Willoughby and I had not had a single disagreement and still remained
good friends. She had a steak and I ordered salmon, and we drank a beer to celebrate.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Finding our check-in counter proved quite daunting as there
were no signs in English or anyone who spoke the language. When the flight was
announced, we ended up behind a bunch of Kyrgyz people flying home the way
Dominicans do, that’s full of packages and voluminous suitcases. When told they
had exceeded their baggage allowance, they tried to negotiate or bribe the
airline personnel to avoid doing so.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we were checking in, a woman and her son approached us
to beg us to carry their bags as they had no money to pay for them. Willoughby was
adamant that she wouldn’t do so as what was the purpose of traveling light if
you were going to then carry somebody else’s belongings. The woman was almost
tearful as she approached me again, but I told her I didn’t speak Russian and didn’t
know the regulations.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
She was able to board the plane with just two bags, so
apparently somebody else helped her out after all. I sat next to the window and
two young Kyrgyz men sitting on the remaining seats talked all the time preventing me from sleeping. Willoughby
was able to find an empty row and went to sleep right away.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-48006921847843043942013-06-28T05:59:00.000-07:002013-06-28T05:59:00.278-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 21, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As much as I had tried to stay on top of one of the ridges
of the air mattress, I ended up sliding to the center and waking up in the
process. Fed up with that, I got up early to have my coffee and had a couple
pieces of pastry before Willoughby was ready to depart for our visit to the
Hermitage Museum.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The morning was sunny and cool as we waited for the
marshrutka across the street. When it came by at 8:00, it was crowded with
commuters and while Willoughby got someone to yield their seat to her, I rode
standing next to metal bar protecting the driver, but jabbing at my hip at every
stop and turn he took.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The walk to the metro station seemed to take forever as
hundreds of commuters competed for space on the sidewalk. There was also a long
queue to buy the tokens as well. At the metro station corresponding to the
Hermitage Museum they must have built the longest escalator in the world, the
one where from the middle you can’t see either its beginning or its end. Exhausting.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once at street level, we found a McDonald’s and Willoughby asked
to go in a get a rest before starting the touring of the museum. We had Wi-Fi
access and found a message from Lingua still insisting on Peace Corps
volunteers to get together to organize a plan to entertain the attendees at
CATEC. I didn’t bother replying since I was officially on vacation.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Across from the Hermitage Museum, a naval cadet graduation
ceremony seemed to be taking place with lots of relatives dressed to the nines
and bearing bouquets of flowers while patiently waiting behind the lines. I got into
another line to pay the admission fee, 400 rubles or $12.50, while Willoughby sat
nearby. To my dismay, the initial fee was only for one portion of the museum,
so they had a full menu of options for access to the other areas. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The administrators had not designed a particular way for
people to get to the window once they come into the building, so everyone just
crowded in front of the first window they found. Once again, no signs in
English, no maps or guides unless you brought your own, which many people had
done, of course.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
People were swarming around like flies; angling to get the
best shots for their favorite pieces in the museum and in the everybody else’s
way in the process. The flashes kept getting into my eyes and maneuvering
around them became simply maddening. I wondered just for a minute what madness
had come into me to convince me that it was worth the time and money to come to
this place so I could be surrounded by people.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We headed straight for the 19<sup>th</sup> and early 20<sup>th</sup>
century area where entire rooms had been devoted to the paintings of such masters as Picasso, Van Gogh, Matisse, and Monet and other famous ones. We toured some of the
rooms where the Romanoff family had lived before their execution, but after a
while felt that it was too much to take in at once.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I asked for a rest and the chance to drink some real coffee.
The museum coffee shop had been an afterthought placed along a corridor with
just a few narrow tables and chairs as they could fit in. They only sold coffee, pastries
and cold sandwiches as you’d find at a gas station in the U.S. With no place available to
sit, I wasn’t about to pay good money to drink my coffee standing up.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I told Willoughby I rather see only the collection of Faberge
eggs I’d read so much about and then leave the museum for good. When I inquired
as to the location of the eggs, I was told, of course, that they were located
in a separate building with its own entrance fee of 300 rubles or about ten
dollars.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was willing to pay fee considering that I might never have
a chance to see those precious items again, but when the clerk told me I had to
go back outside into the queue again to obtain my ticket, I said forget it. We left
the museum, went across the street on the port side and inquired about getting to
the Peterhof Fountains the next day. No one spoke English, but prices were on
display and ranged from 600, about $20.00, to 1,150.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I went back to the same place as the day before for lunch, but
this time the food was awful and the place overcrowded. Just a few feet away,
we boarded the boat that would take us on a ride through the three rivers that
join the city together through numerous canals. It was the best part of the our
trip as for only 600 rubles, we got to see many of the sights from a different angle
and others we hadn’t had a chance to see at all. I used my table to take numerous
shots.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once done with the ride, I wanted to take some photos around
the park and Willoughby decided it was time for another visit to Baskin and
Robbins, so I left her there with my belongings and roamed around the area looking
for a collection of statues mentioned in my guidebook, but never found them. Someone must have spirited them away completely. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the way back to the apartment, we stopped at the
convenience store right in front and I bought flat bread, salami and beer from
a woman dressed like a Tajik or Uzbek person and sporting a gold grille on her
teeth. I grilled the salami in the saucepan and then the flat bread and had that
with my beer. Willoughby had purchased another sandwich from a different vendor
and was glad when I toasted it for her.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I went to bed at nine while Willoughby stayed up reading
from her Kindle.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-52988487341636688212013-06-28T05:51:00.001-07:002013-06-28T05:51:38.745-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 20, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I woke up at 5:30, Willoughby was already out of her
berth and out in the corridor having had a cup of coffee already. She thought
we were due at the station at 5:45 instead of an hour later and had been very
diligent in getting herself ready ahead of everyone else.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once at the station, the same scenario replayed itself: no
information booth, no one who spoke English, no free maps or much open anyway. We
walked outside and approached a taxi driver who wanted 2000 rubles to take us
to the apartment because he claimed it was really far. That was twice what
Irina had mentioned and even then 1,000 rubles would be $32.00 and we didn’t
have the equivalent to $64.00 dollars in rubles at hand.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I told Willoughby we should try getting there by metro and
marshrutka as the instructions indicated and just see what happened. We found
the right station, walked out into an incredibly ugly and noisy intersection
and got directions to Hoh Chi Min Boulevard. The marshrutka we needed came by
in just a few minutes and Willoughby sat next to the driver to show him the
address where we were heading.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a long ride, we arrived at a place full of apartment
buildings painted in different colors to differentiate them. Most of its
residents seemed to be of Central Asian descent, Tajiks, Kyrgyz and Uzbeks.
Tatiana’s brother-in-law’s wife was looking out for us from her window and came
down to greet us and allowed me to use their bathroom.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
She then called the apartment owner who came to get us in
his car, he was Russian, and took us to yet another apartment building nearby. The
flat in itself had not been lived in and only feature a stove, a sink, a table
with two low stools and an air mattress with a comforter and bed sheet on it.There was no fridge and just a few cooking utensils. We
only planned to be there three nights and so resigned ourselves to the rather spartan
conditions.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Alexander, the owner, who spoke no English, got someone on
the telephone, another Irina, to inform us he wanted an additional 1,000 rubles
or about $33.00 as a key deposit in case we lost it. I refused indicating we
were two mature women who knew how to take care of such things. He wasn’t
happy, but accepted the situation. Irina confirmed we’d be leaving the flat
early on Saturday and then offered us a ride to the main train station at
6:00 am.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The weather could not have been better as we left the flat
to head to the historical part of Saint Petersburg. We rode the marshrutka and
then the metro to the Nevsky Prospect and walked to the Church of the Spilled
Blood as the name had caught Willoughby’s attention and she wanted to see it first.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I happened to spot
the sign for the Baskin Robbins ice cream across the street and Willoughby insisted
on going there to try it. When I learned that just one minuscule scoop was
going to cost me the equivalent to $5.16, I only ordered one of the rum raisin
flavor and found it lacking. Willoughby swore their pistachio flavor was
superb and had a second serving.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We got in line to pay 250 rubles to get into the church and
found it crowded with tourists from Spain and Italy that were accompanied by
their respective tour guides who were competing for the right to be heard in
the small space. Here was another example of a church whose entire altar and
all adornments had been ransacked during the Soviet period and the church
turned into a market. The new altar was a splendid one I have to say.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lunch took place at kind of cafeteria offering Wi-Fi where I
was able to get some mashed potatoes and some kind of eggplant and zucchini
dish to accompany it. Willoughby settled for a cappuccino. I needed to exchange
more dollars for rubles and hadn’t seen an exchange place anywhere along our
walks.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Back on Nevsky, we found a couple of banks and one of them
had a clerk who told us in English to keep walking a bit more. The place we
found was crowded to the rafters and each customer needed to take a number. Unable
to tell what window corresponded to what, I approached a young woman and showed
her my dollars. She understood and took me to a different booth to stand there
for the exchange.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We then had to find a pharmacy for my nose continued to
drip like a faucet and I was having difficulties breathing and talking at the
same time. With the help of another customer who spoke English, I was able to
buy anti-histamine and some cough drops. Willoughby suggested I ask for a cup
of water to take the medication immediately, but the pharmacy said they only
had bottled water and I’d have to buy one, which I had no choice but to do.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We made the return trip by metro and wanted to find a
supermarket before getting into the marshrutka so we could buy a few staples
for dinner, but couldn’t find one across any of the four points around us. Since
we remembered seeing several convenience stores around the block of flats, we
resigned ourselves to getting whatever was available there. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby decided to buy the local kind of sandwich that
looks like a cross between a burrito and a gyro from a stand staffed by a Tajik
woman and a guy from Syria. Every item offered, from the pieces of shredded chicken
to the lettuce and tomatoes, looked cold and old. We each got one out of necessity and lack of choice.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We boarded the marshrutka and rode in the deafening roar of
traffic for a good hour before getting to our destination. Once at the convenience
store, we bought cold beer to accompany the sandwiches. I heated up the oven to
toast my sandwich in the little saucepan available and once it turned golden
brown, Willoughby decided she wanted hers toasted in the same way.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I then filled the tub with water and using the dish washing
liquid from the kitchen, finally got to do some laundry. I draped the articles of clothing
wherever I could find a hook placing the jeans over a table on the balcony to insure
they’d dry faster. I then took a shower and got ready for bed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had just gotten into my pajamas when the door bell rang. I
recognized Aijana, the daughter we had met that morning, through the peephole
and opened the door to find almost the entire family there, Zhirdal, his wife,
Aijana and their two-year-old son. They’d come to make sure we liked the flat,
had everything we needed and had been able to make our way around the city.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There was no furniture for them to sit, so we just stood
around in the kitchen trying to understand each other with a mixture of
Russian, Kyrgyz and English. I tried to explain to Aijana that we’d come to the
realization that we had paid for three nights, the original plan, until we
learned there was no flight to Bishkek on Sunday and we needed to leave
Saturday night.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While polite, I firm in telling her that Alexander needed to
return 1,000 rubles to us or I’d be keeping the keys forever. Zhirdal gestured
to indicate that getting money back from a Russian was simply unseen. I told
her I’d take the keys and drop them from the airplane on my way back to Bishkek.
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
After what seemed
like an interminable visit, during which they tried to convince us to move over
to their already crowded flat for more comfort, they left not before promising to
pick us up on Saturday at nine instead of six to take us to the station so we
didn’t have to bother getting out of the flat at such an ungodly hour.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-54300640821845583932013-06-28T05:41:00.001-07:002013-06-28T05:41:51.638-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 19, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was up at my usual time, five in the morning, and had a
chance to drink my coffee and catch up on my email and FB postings before
anybody else was up. I still had a throbbing pain in my lower abdomen and back,
but fortunately it was bearable.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I charged my cell phone, just in case, and my tablet as well
while Willoughby and Irina got ready. I disposed of all food items in my
backpack that had gone bad and repacked everything else. We had some photos
taken in the garden and finally piled into her car for the drive to the train
station. She had been a great hostess, and we felt sad to say goodbye after
just two days of knowing her.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We missed the local train by perhaps seconds as Willoughby couldn’t
walk fast enough to make it. The next one was supposed to be an express and it
was jammed packed with commuters to point of one feeling about to suffocate. Willoughby
lucked out when someone offer her a seat in the area intended for the old and the
infirm.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had to tough it out in the area between cars with my
backpack jammed between my legs. I could feel the sweat running down my neck
and my back. For someone with a mild touch of claustrophobia, no worst scenario
could have materialized. We had to go for many, many miles before enough
commuters got off the train before I could find a seat.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once at the train station, we located the room with the
lockers. The ones here operate the old fashioned way with an attendant
requesting your passport, which he either scans or photocopies, and then he attaches
a tag to your backpack and gives you a receipt. We paid 140 rubles or about
$4.00 for a day. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was back to the metro with its never ending escalators. Willoughby
miscalculated the number of stops to the Red Square and we got off two stops
too soon. Once on the street, I stopped a very handsome young man to ask
him how we could go there, and although he spoke very little English, he
insisted on getting back on the metro with us, using his own card, and walking
us into the square directly. His name was Andrei and he mentioned he had been
looking for a job for the last three months.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was starving by then, so we returned to the Gum department
store and tried out another restaurant, which turned out not to be as good as
the first one, but which offered latte and cappuccino coffee. On the first
floor, there was the most elegant ice cream cart I’ve ever seen with the servers
dressed in formal attire to serve you. We each had a scoop of the pistachio one.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We then moved on to the Municipal Museum where to my
disappointment, there were no Faberge eggs to be admired. We were told the
Hermitage in Saint Peter would be the place to see those. Their collection of
gold ornaments on everything from jewelry to household goods was spectacular enough to leave
you speechless.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There were countless other museums around the square and we
had a difficult choice to make as the entrance fees were quite steep for all of
them and we weren’t really familiar with their contents.We noticed long lines, in the sun, just to get the tickets
and then more lines, and a security check for the entrance to some of them, and
decided on the spot not to bother.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Instead, we walked around the square
admiring the fountains, flower beds, statuary and buildings while I practiced
using my tablet to take photos after seeing someone doing the same thing the
day before. I will never know how it happened, perhaps the stress had gone away, but by mid-afternoon, I
was pain free. It felt so exhilarating to be able to walk about without feeling
like I was having the worst menstrual cramps ever.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was time to go back to the train station to retrieve our
backpacks, get a bite to eat before boarding the train, and making it to the
Leningraski Station across the street. I ordered plov and a small salad and was
charged 416.00 rubles or $13.00 for something that would cost me two dollars in
Bishkek. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I checked my email and was relieved to learn that Irina had
gotten hold of Tatiana’s brother-in-law and confirmed that the apartment rental
had been arranged. She supplied detailed instructions on how to get there from
the train station in Saint Petersburg as well as the possible cost of a taxi if
we chose to take one. People can be really good.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We rode a really old train, the kind I’d always seen in the
movies where each compartment has a door and there is a common corridor
outside. We had no luck though in exchanging berths for Willoughby as the lower
ones were occupied by a young mother with her daughter, about three, and a portly
sour-looking grandmother with her three-year-old grandson.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had started to sniffle and cough earlier in the day
probably because of all the smoke from the coal burned during the train ride
from Bishkek, the constant smoking in the city, the dust and the seasonal pollen
in the air. The young mother spoke some English, so we peppered her with a lot
of questions including how to buy some anti-histamine the next day. She offered
me some drops from her daughter’s medication as she suffered from the same
condition.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was too crowded in the compartment for all six of us to
stay there, so we stood in the corridor watching the city recede from view and
then the ever expanding suburbs came into view. Fortunately, Willoughby discovered
that there were pull-up stools attached to the wall, so we could sit
comfortably and watch the landscape hoping to catch a bit of the “white nights”
spectacle we’d heard so much about.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was only able to stay up until eleven, but even then it
was completely light outside. Willoughby had a difficult time getting up to the
upper berth, so the young woman recommended that instead of using the regular
metal ladder on the side, she should step onto the table and hop from there. Willoughby
has had a hip replacement, and thus her mobility is restricted.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The children were still awake while the young mother read to
her daughter from a tablet and the little boy played on another electronic device.
I put on my ear plugs and fell asleep to the rhythm of the train.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5559219270231272160.post-19271163436786450322013-06-28T05:33:00.000-07:002013-06-28T05:33:49.859-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
June 18, 2013</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Light was streaming in at five in the morning and I got up
to make coffee. The dacha is occupied by two cats, a chinchilla and a group of
fish in an aquarium tank not counting the fierce-looking Siberian husky dog
penned outside. The space was fairly large, but it was purchased originally
as a summer cottage, but the family was forced to live in it year round now. It
featured a modern kitchen, with a cute dishwasher, and a spacious bathroom.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Irina had offered to drop us off at the metro station on her
way to work. I had one of the pieces of pastry I’d purchased in Bishkek and another
cup of 3-in-1 coffee while Willoughby got ready. I brought my tablet with me as
I had a guidebook to Moscow in it with a reasonably good map of the metro
stations. Irina lent us her map of the city as well and had provide us with a local
SIM card for my phone so we could call her in case of an emergency.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After asking numerous passersby, and even the Metro police
for directions, and finding no one who spoke English, we positioned ourselves
by the giant map in front of the ticket booth and mapped out our itinerary. We
made it to the Red Square after transferring a couple of time. The metro
charges 28 rubles or almost a dollar per ride.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The square was mobbed with people, mostly by ill-dressed
tourists from Japan who awkwardly posed in their mismatched outfits and floppy
hats. I suggested a break before starting as I really needed a real cup of
coffee after almost four days of the instant stuff. We found a sidewalk café directly
in front of the Lenin Mausoleum and got a table where we could see all the
action.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our cappuccino and latte ended up costing us about $8.00 a
piece, but the setting was so gorgeous, the weather fantastic and the
people-watching opportunity unbeatable. Once replenished, we walked to the
Saint Basil Cathedral, a place I’d dreamed about visiting for years and years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There was a line to buy the entrance ticket, but the 400
ruble fee, about $12.50, seemed steep to me. The inside of the church is as gorgeous
as the outside and the collection of icons simply superb. I hadn’t read about
the first Christians in Russia being labeled “fools for Christ” as they
insisted on going around naked and on flagellating themselves to expiate their
sins.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I got my brother-in-law the little spoon he likes to collect
from different cities and then left the place so we could find a restaurant. We
checked the Lenin Mausoleum on the way out, but it was already closed as it
only opens between 10:00 and 1:00 pm.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was eavesdropping on a group of Argentinean tourists when
their guide said that the famed Gum department store, right across the square,
had a food court on the top floor and offered budget meals for its employees. I
had read many times about this store in the books written by Russian writers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had a fabulous meal at one of the many restaurants:
Italian flat bread sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, lasagna, and roasted green
beans with cherry tomatoes. I felt vindicated after all the lousy meals on the
train. Willoughby refused to eat anything.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was back to the metro to find another famous church
practically across the city while hoping to have enough time to reach the
Pushkin Museum nearby. I took advantage of our numerous change of metro lines to take photos of some of the fantastic artwork that adorns the walls and ceilings of the metro system.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we stepped outside, clouds were gathering at this point and we were
concerned about another downpour. This church had no admission fee, but an
extremely long queue as apparently it’s a local church where people do worship,
and not a museum.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No photos were allowed inside and I was stunned by the
detailed woodwork, colorful mosaics and expansive chandeliers. Willoughby’s
feet had started to hurt quite a bit by then, so we didn’t stay long. Back outside,
we found a sign indicating the church had been ransacked and set on fire at
some point and had only been restored to its previous condition within the last
decade. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Willoughby suggested skipping the Pushkin Museum since we
still needed to go back to the main train station and get our tickets for the
ride to Saint Petersburg the following night. Once there, we couldn’t even find
anyone who could direct us to the proper place to buy the tickets. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After much walking back and forth, I felt terrible for Willoughby,
one police officer directed us to the right place. It was rush hour traffic and
people were pushing each other to reach their trains and had little time for a
foreigner asking for information. We never came across an information booth
anywhere in the city, much less at the train station.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were finally asked by an attendant if we had credit cards
because that way, we could purchase our tickets ourselves from one the machines
nearby. I tried it first and was furious beyond belief when upon
completing the transaction, I was told the credit card company had rejected the
charges. I had forgotten to notify them I’d be traveling through Russia.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Another kind woman came to our rescue and helped us select
the right train, time and compartment using Willoughby’s credit card. We paid 5,300
rubles each or $166.00. All lower berths had been sold by then, but she reassured
Willoughby that other passengers would be willing to trade places with her due
to her age. It was 8:30 pm by the time we walked out with our tickets and not
before the woman had walked with us to show us where we could leave our
backpacks the following morning until our train departure.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had invited Irina and her family for dinner and she’d
initially agreed only to tell us later that she had a date with her boyfriend. She
needed us back at the train station by seven if we wanted a ride or we’d need
to take a taxi. We settled for the taxi. We stopped by the food court and Willoughby
bought a breaded piece of chicken breast while I chose fried fish to take to
the house and reheat.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We found a taxi whose driver had a bit of trouble locating
the specific house. The fish was dry and flavorless and I could only eat a few
bites of it. The pain in my back and abdomen had begun to bother me severely,
but I didn’t want to worry Willoughby, so I just went to bed after taking a
shower.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I tossed and turned in bed unable to find a comfortable
position and feeling the pain getting stronger and stronger. Then panic set in
when I realized I hadn’t even bothered to bring my health card with me in case
of an emergency. I cried out in pain for the first time contemplating the idea
that perhaps I was going through another episode of the shingles.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I told Willoughby what was going on and she wanted to know
what she should do, but I really couldn’t think of anything and eventually the
pain subsided enough to allow me to fall asleep.</div>
</div>
Quisqueyana54http://www.blogger.com/profile/17175585074132150754noreply@blogger.com0